Women's Dresses/Collared T-Shirt Dress Pattern | Casual Short Sleeve Dress PDF | Easy Shift Dress Sewing | Womens Summer Basic | L-XXL
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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4-5. Prepare the plackets
- Finish one of the vertical edges on the plackets. Press the plackets in half lengthwise.
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1. Reinforce the pattern pieces
- Reinforce the pattern pieces: attach interfacing to the plackets and collar, and fuse the collar to the seam allowance along the entire stitching perimeter. To help prevent stretching at the shoulder seam: Attach a strip of fusible interfacing with a knit base, 0.5 cm wide and as long as the shoulder edge, to the shoulder edge of the back piece (or insert a silicone tape under the seam for reinforcement).
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6. Mark reference points
- Mark reference points on the front piece. Chalk the stitching line for attaching the placket onto the front. Seam allowance is 1.0 cm for the vertical lines and the lower horizontal edge. Where the lines meet are your placket's reference points.
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9. Clip corners diagonally
- Make diagonal snips at a 45-degree angle, stopping 1 mm short of the reference points on the panel piece.
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7. Stitch plackets to front
- Stitch the unfinished edges of the plackets to the vertical edges of the front piece, making sure to sew precisely up to the guide marks. Place the placket face side down onto the right side of the front.
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8. Press placket seam allowances
- Press the seam allowance of the plackets onto the placket itself.
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10. Lay out and layer plackets
- Lay out the placket, smoothing out all allowances, aligning every edge, pin the lower edge, and layer the top placket over the bottom one, making sure it matches the edge of the front panel.
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11. Sew lower edge of placket
- Sew the lower edge of the placket, making sure to align the placket’s reference points. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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14. Sew shoulder seams
- Sew the shoulder seams using a 4-thread overlock machine (or sew with a regular machine first, then finish the edges with a standard 3-thread overlock).
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13. Press lower seam
- Press the lower seam of the placket flat.
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12. Finish lower seam allowance
- Finish the lower seam allowance of the placket, keeping all layers together. Use a crochet hook to tuck in the serger threads neatly along the seam.
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16. Collar Preparation
- 16.1. Stitch the ends of the collar with the right sides facing inward. Leave a seam allowance of 0.7 cm. 16.2. Turn the collar right side out and press it flat.
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15. Press shoulder seams
- Press the shoulder seam allowances toward the back.
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17. Attach collar to neckline
- 17.1.1. Pin the lower edge of the collar to the dress neckline. The collar ends should meet the notch at the center of the placket. Fold the placket right sides together along the crease, making sure part of the collar stays between the placket edges.
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17.1.5. Clip collar seam allowance
- Clip the collar seam allowance and the neckline edge of the front where the placket ends.
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17.1.6. Baste upper collar
- Baste the pressed edge of the upper collar to the seam where the lower collar is attached, keeping it 0.1 cm from the edge. When topstitching, make sure the stitching on the front side runs right along the collar attachment seam, and on the back side, it sits 0.1 cm above the lower edge of the upper collar.
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17.1.2. Sew collar and finish corners
- Sew the lower part of the collar into the neckline. Finish the top corners of the placket. Allow a 0.7 cm seam.
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17.1.3 - 17.1.4. Turn and press collar
- Turn the placket corners right side out. Press the lower edge of the upper collar upward.
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17.2.6. Topstitch neckline
- Sew a decorative and reinforcing topstitch along the neckline at 0.7-0.8 cm, gently stretching the fabric as you go. Remove any basting stitches when finished.
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17.2.4 - 17.2.5. Stitch and baste tape
- Stitch one side of the tape into the collar-to-neckline seam. Position the tape on the collar piece side. Tuck the ends of the twill tape inside the placket. Baste the other side of the tape 0.1 cm from the edge.
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17.2.7 - 17.2.8. Stitch lower placket and press
- Stitch the vertical serged edge of the lower placket from the right side, making sure to sew directly in the groove of the upper placket seam. Press the attached collar.
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21. Sew sleeve-side seams
- Sew and serge the sleeve-side seams together using a 4-thread overlock machine (or sew with a regular sewing machine first, then finish the edges with a standard 3-thread overlock).
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18. Attach sleeves
- Attach and serge the sleeves to the armholes in one step using a 4-thread overlock machine (alternatively, sew with a standard machine, then finish the edges with a regular 3-thread overlock).
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19. Press armhole seam
- Press the armhole seam allowance toward the sleeve.
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20. Press sleeve hem
- Press the sleeve hem allowance up by 3 cm.
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23. Press hem allowance
- Press up the hem allowance of the dress by 4 cm.
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25-27. Sew buttonholes
- Mark the buttonhole placement on the placket according to the markings. Sew the buttonholes using a home sewing machine set to the appropriate program, or use a specialized machine. The size of the buttonhole should match the size of the buttons. Remove any threads from the buttonholes and cut them open.
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22. Press sleeve-side seam
- Press the sleeve-side seam allowance toward the back.
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24. Stitch hems
- Use a flatlock machine to stitch along the hem of the sleeve and the bottom of the dress. If you don’t have a flatlock machine, finish the raw edges and then stitch using a regular sewing machine. Hide the thread tails on the wrong side with a hook.
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28. Mark button spots
- Mark the spots for sewing buttons on the lower placket.
