Women's Sweatshirts/Cozy Zip-Up Sweatshirt Sewing Pattern | Beginner Friendly | Jumper with collar | Zipped | XS-XXL | PDF Pattern
1 / 5Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Apply Bias Fusible Tape
- Apply the bias fusible tape along the neckline edges. Use a 10 mm wide tape and position it 2–3 mm away from the edge so the tape's border will be caught in the stitching.
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Reinforce Zipper Seam Allowances
- On the wrong side of the front and collar pieces, reinforce the zipper seam allowances with a strip of fusible interfacing. Attach a 10 mm wide strip, keeping it 2–3 mm away from the edge so the strip’s edge will be caught in the stitching.
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Transfer Bust Dart Markings
- Transfer the bust dart markings to the wrong side of the front pieces.
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Stitch Shoulder Seams
- Place the front and back pieces together with right sides facing, matching the shoulder edges. Pin together from the back piece side. Stitch the pieces together using an overlock machine set for four-thread stitching. Sew with the back piece facing up.
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Press Shoulder Seams
- Press the seam, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
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Sew Bust Darts
- Fold the front piece right sides together along the dart center marking, align the slanted marking lines, and pin in place. Sew the dart on the machine exactly along the marked line, starting at the dart base.
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Press Bust Darts
- Press the darts, then press the dart allowance upward. At the tip of the dart, gently steam into shape using curved motions.
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Press Side Seams
- Press the seam, then press the seam allowances toward the back piece.
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Baste Twill Tape to Collar
- Finish one of the long edges of the collar neckline with the twill tape. To do this, wrap the pressed tape around the edge and baste it in place by hand.
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Prepare Twill Tape
- Pre-shrink the twill tape, measure the neckline edge, and add 2–4 cm to the length. Fold the twill tape in half and press it flat.
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Stitch Side Seams
- Place the front and back pieces right sides together, aligning the side edges. Pin from the front piece side. Sew with an overlock machine, stitching from the front piece side.
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Stitch Twill Tape
- Stitch the twill tape 0.1 cm from its edge. Make sure the tape's edge is caught in the seam along its entire length on the wrong side. Remove the basting stitches, trim any loose ends of the tape flush with the short edges of the collar. Press the seam.
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Press Sleeve Seams
- Press the seam, then press the seam allowance toward the front.
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Sew Sleeve Seams
- Turn the sleeves inside out, matching up the edges. Pin them in place. Use a serger to sew the seam, starting from the back of the sleeve. The front of the sleeve is marked with a notch along the sleeve cap.
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Attach Collar to Sweater
- Place the collar (unfinished edge) right sides together with the sweater, aligning the neckline edges and matching all guide points. Pin in place. Sew the collar to the sweater using a sewing machine, with a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
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Press Sleeve Armhole Seams
- Press with an iron, then fold the seam allowances toward the sleeve and press again.
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Finish Lower Edges
- Finish the lower edge of the sweater and sleeves with a serger. Stitch from the right side. Press to set the seam.
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Pin Sleeves to Armholes
- Insert the sleeves into the armholes with right sides facing each other. Make sure not to mix up the right and left sleeves—use the guide marks for reference. Pin the sleeves in place from the sweater side.
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Sew Sleeves
- Sew the sleeves with an overlocker. Stitch from the sweater side.
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Mark Zipper Reference Points
- Mark the lower zipper point on the front piece—this is the reference for your hem allowance. On the collar, mark where the zipper starts—this will be your collar fold reference point.
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Sew Right Zipper
- Sew the zipper in place using a single-sided presser foot on your sewing machine, keeping a 1.0 cm seam allowance from the edge of the zipper tape.
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Pin Zipper to Right Edge
- Unzip the zipper and set aside the side without the pull tab. Pin this side to the right edge, lining it up with your markings. Lay the zipper face down against the front of the sweater so that the edge of the zipper tape matches the edge of the front. Make sure the zipper sits exactly between the marked points. Fold the top end of the zipper tape into a neat corner.
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Prepare and Cut Zipper
- Steam the zipper tape. The exact zipper length for your size and height is noted on the front piece. From the lower zipper stop, measure out the required length, then add an extra 2–3 cm upward and mark a reference point. Cut the zipper tape at the upper reference mark. Use pliers to remove any excess zipper teeth. Move the zipper stop precisely to match the final zipper marking.
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Sew Left Zipper
- Sew the zipper in place using a sewing machine with a single presser foot; keep the stitch line 1.0 cm from the edge of the zipper tape.
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Check Zipper Alignment
- Zip it up and check that the collar seam is even on both sides. Press to finish.
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Transfer Collar Seam Marking
- Zip up the zipper, then transfer the collar seam marking to the opposite tape.
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Pin Left Zipper
- Unzip the zipper, line up the other side with the left edge of the sweater front, positioning the zipper between the sweater’s guide points and matching the collar seam to the zipper’s marking. Pin or baste in place.
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Baste Twill Tape to Zipper
- Pre-shrink the twill tape, then place it along the back side of the zipper tape, making sure the tape’s edge lines up with the zipper stitching. Baste the tape to the zipper tape. Lay the twill tape so it overlaps the collar by 1–2 cm, finishing by covering the seam allowance at the hem by another 1–2 cm.
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Wrap and Stitch Collar Ends
- Wrap the zipper around the collar piece, making sure the zipper tape is evenly aligned on the inside. Pin the short ends and tape edges with pins. Stitch on a sewing machine with a 1.0 cm seam allowance using a single-toe presser foot. Press to set the seam.
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Stitch Hem Allowance Ends
- Turn the hem allowance to the right side, with the zipper tape inside. Pin in place. Sew on the sewing machine with a 1.0 cm seam allowance, using a single-toe presser foot. Press to finish.
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Topstitch Twill Tape
- Topstitch the twill tape onto the zipper tape. Use a single-toe presser foot to stitch right at the edge of the tape. Press to set the seam.
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Secure Twill Tape Edge
- Hand-stitch the free edge of the twill tape along the zipper with invisible stitches, or machine-stitch close to the edge of the tape. Press to finish.
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Turn and Press Corners
- Turn the collar and hem allowance right side out, straighten the corners, and fold the zipper tape with twill tape to the inside of the sweatshirt. Press to set.
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Stitch Collar Attachment Seam
- On the right side, stitch along the groove of the collar attachment seam. On the wrong side, check that the collar edge is caught in the stitching all the way along the seam.
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Baste Inside Collar
- Smooth out the inside of the collar and baste it along the neckline edge, letting it overlap the collar seam by about 1 cm.
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Hand Stitch Hems
- Hand stitch the hem of the sweater and sleeves using invisible stitches. Press gently with an iron.
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Press Hem Allowances
- Press the 3.0 cm hem allowance for the bottom of the sweater and sleeves to the wrong side.
