Women's Pants/Front Pintuck Trousers Pattern | Elegant High Rise Office Pants | Tailored Flared Slacks PDF | Womens Sewing XS-M
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Page 1
Interfacing Facings
- Completely interface the following pieces: Front facing – 1 piece, Back facing – 1 piece. It’s best to roughly cut the pieces for interfacing—lay out the listed pieces on your fabric, mark the area with tailor’s chalk, apply the interfacing to the marked section, and then cut out each piece using your paper pattern.
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Page 1
Pinning Back Darts
- Place the back pant pieces right sides together, matching up the center dart markings. Align along the marked lines and pin in place.
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Page 1
Transferring Dart Markings
- Transfer the dart markings to the wrong side of the back pieces.
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Page 2
Pinning Front Pieces
- Place the center and side front pieces right sides together, aligning them along the center edge. Pin from the center piece side.
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Page 2
Sewing Back Darts
- Sew along the marked line with your machine, starting at the waist edge and finishing at the dart point.
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Page 2
Pressing Back Darts
- Press the darts, then press the dart allowance toward the center. At the top point of the dart, gently steam-press using curved motions.
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Page 2
Sewing Front Pieces
- Sew the pieces together on a serger set for four-thread stitching, working from the central panel side. Press the seam, then press the seam allowance toward the side piece.
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Page 3
Sewing Inseams
- Sew together on the overlock machine, stitching from the front piece side. Press the seams, then press the seam allowances toward the back piece.
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Page 3
Pinning Inseams
- Place the front and back pieces together in pairs, right sides facing, aligning the inseams. Pin together from the front piece side.
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Page 3
Topstitching Front Seams
- Press the seam allowances toward the side piece and topstitch from the right side, sewing 0.5 cm away from the seam onto the side piece.
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Page 4
Pinning Left Side Seam
- With right sides together, align the left pant leg along the side seam. Pin the section starting from the zipper end point and continue down for 7 cm.
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Page 4
Reinforcing Zipper Area
- Locate the left pant leg. In the photo, the left pant leg is shown with the wrong side facing you. Use a lengthwise fusible tape to reinforce the seam allowance where the invisible zipper will be attached. Apply a 10 mm wide tape to the wrong side, aligning it with the raw edge. The tape should extend 1–2 cm below the zipper end mark.
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Page 4
Pressing Hem Allowance
- Press the seam allowance for the pant hem (3 cm) to the wrong side ahead of time.
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Page 4
Serging Zipper Seam Area
- Use a serger to finish the side seam area on both the front and back pieces where the zipper will be attached. Stitch from the waist edge and continue 7 cm below the zipper end point, making sure to sew from the right side. Press the seam flat when finished.
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Page 5
Serging Left Side Seam
- On the left pant leg, pin the side seam all the way to the hemline. Sew the side seam with an overlock, stitching from the front piece. Begin at the bottom edge of the pants and gradually blend the seam into the machine stitch where they meet.
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Page 5
Pressing Left Side Seam
- Press the side seam flat. At the machine-stitched area, press the seam allowances open; below that, press them toward the back piece.
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Page 5
Sewing Left Side Seam Section
- Sew the section of the side seam on the machine. Start the stitch at the control point where the zipper ends, and sew downward for 7 cm. The machine needle should follow right along the edge of the overlock stitch that finishes the side edges.
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Page 5
Hiding Serger Thread
- Using a large needle or crochet hook, weave the serger thread tail into the thickness of the knit fabric to hide it.
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Page 6
Pinning Crotch Seam
- Leave one pant leg turned right side out, and turn the other inside out. Place one leg inside the other, right sides facing, and align the crotch seam. Pin in place.
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Page 6
Sewing Crotch Seam
- Sew the crotch seam on a serger. Press the seam, then on the straight sections, press the seam allowances so the right side of the serged stitch faces you.
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Page 6
Marking Zipper Reference Points
- Measure 1.3 cm from the waist edge and mark reference points on the right side of the fabric.
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Page 6
Sewing Right Side Seam
- Fold the right leg piece right sides together, aligning the side seams. Pin along the side from the front piece. Serge the seam, stitching from the front piece side. Press the seam, then press the seam allowance toward the back piece.
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Page 7
Sewing Zipper to Back
- Attach the invisible zipper presser foot to your machine. Position the zipper under the foot so the needle is to the left of the zipper teeth, and the teeth rest in the groove of the presser foot. Stitch the zipper in place, starting at the waist edge and stopping 0.2–0.3 cm before reaching the start of the side seam.
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Page 7
Pinning Zipper to Front
- Place the other side of the zipper tape right sides together with the front of the pants, and pin it in place. Align the top stop of the zipper with the reference point, letting the edge of the tape extend 0.3 cm past the fabric edge.
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Page 7
Sewing Zipper to Front
- Position the zipper under the presser foot so the needle falls to the right of the zipper teeth, and the teeth sit in the groove of the foot. Sew from the waist edge, stopping 0.2–0.3 cm before reaching the start of the side seam.
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Page 7
Pinning Zipper to Back
- Pre-shrink the zipper tape. Unzip the zipper and place it face-down on the right side of the back pants piece, as shown in the photo. Align the top stop of the zipper with the marked control point. Pin one side of the zipper tape to the side seam, making sure the edge of the tape extends 0.3 cm beyond the fabric edge, since the seam allowance is 0.7 cm and the width of the zipper tape is 1 cm.
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Page 8
Pinning Facings
- Place the facings for the front and back pieces right sides together, matching the trimmed edge at the marked notch. Pin in place.
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Page 8
Securing Zipper Tape
- Stitch the zipper tape onto the seam allowance of the side seam, keeping the line of stitching 0.5 cm away from the zipper teeth. Use a single-toe presser foot for this step.
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Page 8
Checking Zipper
- Zip up and check the stitching quality. Carefully press the zipper using a pressing cloth.
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Page 9
Finishing Facing Lower Edge
- You can finish the lower edge of the facing with an overlock stitch or use pre-made bias tape for binding. Press with an iron.
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Page 9
Sewing Facings
- Sew a seam at 0.7 cm using a sewing machine. Press, then open the seam allowances and press them flat in opposite directions.
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Page 9
Pinning Facing to Waistband
- Fold the facing right sides together with the waistband edge of the pants. Pin the short edges of the facing to the seam allowances of the side seam and to the zipper tape.
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Page 9
Sewing Facing Short Edges
- Sew the short edges with a 0.5 cm seam allowance.
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Page 10
Trimming Seam Allowances
- Trim the zipper tape and seam allowances down to 0.4 cm at the corners.
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Page 10
Aligning Facing with Waist Edge
- Place the facing right sides together, aligning it with the waist edge of the pants and matching the notches and seams.
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Page 10
Folding Seam Allowances at Zipper
- At the zipper area, fold the seam allowances onto the facing, then fold the pants piece over so it wraps around the zipper teeth as shown in the photo—this shifts the seam attaching the short edges of the facing toward the facing itself.
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Page 10
Stitching Facing
- Stitch the facing in place with a 1 cm seam allowance.
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Page 11
Hemming Pants
- Try on the pants and decide on the desired length. Finish the bottom edge with a serger, then press a 3 cm hem allowance to the inside.
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Page 11
Securing Hem
- Secure the hem allowance by hand using an invisible stitch. Press with an iron.
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Page 11
Pressing Facing Inside
- Turn the facing to the inside of the pants and press, creating a slight roll toward the facing side.
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Page 11
Topstitching Facing
- Press the seam allowances onto the facing and topstitch from the right side, stitching 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam on the facing.
