Women's Sweatshirts/Graziella shirt | Knit Polo Jumper | Relaxed Fit Long Sleeve Pullover PDF Sewing Pattern | Autumn or Winter Outfit | XS–M |A4,Letter,Plotter
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Serging Placket Edges
- Serge/Overlock one of the long raw edges on the placket pieces. Note that, when finished, the serged edges on the plackets must be a mirror image of each other. Perform the serging stitch on the right side of the piece. Press lightly (or finger-press).
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Pressing Plackets
- Press the placket pieces in half, wrong sides together, aligning with the center control points of the piece.
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Pinning Plackets to Front
- Place the placket pieces onto the front piece, right sides together, and pin. At the bottom point of the slash (opening), precisely align the markings made on the front piece and the plackets – the intersection of the marking lines on the front and the plackets must be exactly matched. Pin in place.
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Marking Front and Plackets
- On the right side of the front piece, mark the following: measure 0.7 cm from the placket attachment edges along the bottom raw edge and mark the lines. On the wrong side of the plackets, mark the bottom raw edge. From the bottom raw edge, measure 3 cm, and from the vertical raw edges (the edges that are not serged), measure 0.7 cm.
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Stitching Plackets
- Stitch the plackets with a seam allowance of 0.7 cm. Start or finish the stitching exactly at the intersection of the marked lines on the placket pieces. Press lightly.
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Folding Collar
- Fold the collar piece right sides together, aligning the short edges of the outer collar (collar point edges), and pin.
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Marking Collar Seam Lines
- Mark the collar, measuring 0.7 cm from the edges until the intersection of the lines.
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Stitching Shoulder Seams
- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulder edges. Pin from the back side. Serge/Stitch on the overlocker, placing the stitch on the back side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
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Stitching Collar Edges
- Stitch the short edges of the collar on the machine with a seam allowance of 0.7 cm. Start or finish the stitching exactly at the intersection point of the marked lines.
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Trimming and Turning Collar
- In the collar corner, trim the seam allowances close to the stitching line. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances open (spread them to different sides) using a pressing ham (tailor's ham) for the collar's wet heat treatment (WHT). Turn the collar right side out, smooth out the corners, and press lightly.
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Pinning Collar to Neckline
- Pin the collar to the neckline, right sides together, aligning the control points.
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Aligning Collar with Placket Center
- Place the edge of the collar towards the pressed line marking the center of the placket.
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Checking Collar Corner Insertion
- Turn the collar to the right side, check the quality of the collar corner insertion.
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Pre-stitching Placket Section
- Pre-stitch the placket section on the sewing machine, using a seam allowance of 0.7 cm.
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Overlocking Collar Neckline
- If the result is satisfactory, turn the collar back to the wrong side and stitch the collar with the overlocker.
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Wrapping Collar with Placket
- Cover the collar from above with the free part of the placket, pin it, aligning all raw edges. (Direct the placket attachment allowances onto the placket).
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Preparing Twill Tape
- Preshrink the twill tape (or bias tape). Place the twill tape with the wrong side against the collar attachment seam allowance.
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Overlocking Placket Area
- In the area of the plackets, the left needle of the overlocker must pass exactly over the machine stitching line. Press lightly.
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Pinning Twill Tape
- Pin it so that the edge of the twill tape overlaps the overlocker stitching by 0.1 – 0.2 cm. Place the ends of the twill tape so they slightly overlap the plackets.
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Stitching Twill Tape (First Edge)
- Stitch the twill tape in place, sewing at a distance of 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the edge of the twill tape. The stitching must land on the collar attachment stitching line.
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Stitching Twill Tape (Second Edge)
- Stitch the second edge of the twill tape, sewing at a distance of 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the edge. Start and finish the stitching exactly at the placket attachment seam. Direct the placket attachment seam allowances towards the plackets. You can baste first.
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Clipping Front Corners
- On the front piece, make diagonal clips (notches), stopping 0.1 cm short of the end of the placket attachment stitching lines.
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Aligning Plackets
- Direct the allowance at the bottom edge of the slash (opening) inwards, place the right placket over the left one, and align the plackets.
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Pinning Bottom of Plackets
- Turn the front piece upwards. Align the bottom edges of the plackets, and pin. Direct the placket attachment seam allowances onto the plackets.
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Basting Plackets
- Baste the inner sides of the plackets. Make the hand stitching from the right side, landing the needle in the ditch of the placket attachment seam, and from the wrong side, catching the free edge of the placket at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge (along the edge of the overlock stitching).
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Stitching Bottom Edge of Plackets
- Stitch the bottom edge, making the stitching exactly from one clip (notch) to the other clip (notch).
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Finishing Placket Stitching
- Remove the basting stitches. Press lightly.
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Stitching Plackets in the Ditch
- Stitch the plackets. Perform the stitching from the right side in the ditch of the placket attachment seam; the stitching runs along the front piece. Start the stitching at the collar setting seam.
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Stitching Second Placket
- Pivot in the corner and stitch along the second placket, placing the stitching in the ditch of the seam on the front piece. Stop at the collar setting seam.
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Pivoting at Placket Bottom
- Reach the bottom edge of the placket. Pivot and stitch along the bottom edge of the placket, stitching in the ditch of the placket attachment seam, but here, place the stitching on the placket itself.
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Stitching Side and Sleeve Seams
- Fold the jumper right sides together, aligning the side seams and the sleeve seams, and pin from the back side. In the underarm area, press the seam allowances of the armhole to opposite sides to avoid excessive bulk. Stitch on the overlocker, placing the stitching on the back piece side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
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Topstitching Placket Allowances
- Mark the lines for topstitching the placket allowances. Measure 1.5 cm down from the placket attachment seam and mark a line. Extend the vertical placket attachment seam up to the marking line. Topstitch along the markings, catching the placket allowances from the wrong side.
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Overlocking Placket Bottom
- Align the plackets along the bottom edge. The allowance of the bottom edge can be trimmed in half. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the plackets. Hide the thread tails of the overlock stitching within the fabric using a thick needle.
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Sleeve Insertion
- Pin the sleeves into the armholes, right sides together; do not mix up the right and left sleeves, and align the control points. The control point on the sleeve cap relates to the front. Stitch the sleeves with the overlocker, placing the stitching on the jumper side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the jumper body.
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Final Pressing
- Press the collar lightly. Perform the final wet heat treatment (WHT) of the entire garment.
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Fitting and Overlocking Hems
- Perform a fitting (try-on) and determine the final length of the jumper and the sleeves. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the jumper and sleeves, placing the stitching on the right side of the piece. Press lightly. Refresh the pressing of the hem allowances (4 cm).
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Blind Hemming
- Stitch the hem allowances with a hand blind hem stitch.
