Women's Tops/Graziella shirt | Knit Polo Top | Loose Fit Long Sweater PDF Sewing Pattern | Cozy Autumn Winter Outfit | L–XXL | A4, US Letter, Plotter
1 / 5Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Page 4
Prepare Plackets
- Press the placket pieces in half, wrong sides together, aligning with the center control points of the piece.
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Page 4
Serge Placket Edges
- Serge/Overlock one of the long raw edges on the placket pieces. Note that, when finished, the serged edges on the plackets must be a mirror image of each other. Perform the serging stitch on the right side of the piece. Press lightly (or finger-press).
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Page 4
Mark Front and Plackets
- On the right side of the front piece, mark the following: measure 0.7 cm from the placket attachment edges along the bottom raw edge and mark the lines. On the wrong side of the plackets, mark the bottom raw edge. From the bottom raw edge, measure 3 cm, and from the vertical raw edges (the edges that are not serged), measure 0.7 cm.
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Page 4
Pin Plackets to Front
- Place the placket pieces onto the front piece, right sides together, and pin. At the bottom point of the slash (opening), precisely align the markings made on the front piece and the plackets – the intersection of the marking lines on the front and the plackets must be exactly matched. Pin in place.
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Page 5
Mark Collar Seamlines
- Mark the collar, measuring 0.7 cm from the edges until the intersection of the lines.
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Page 5
Stitch Shoulder Seams
- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulder edges. Pin from the back side. Serge/Stitch on the overlocker, placing the stitch on the back side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
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Page 5
Stitch Plackets
- Stitch the plackets with a seam allowance of 0.7 cm. Start or finish the stitching exactly at the intersection of the marked lines on the placket pieces. Press lightly.
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Page 5
Fold Collar
- Fold the collar piece right sides together, aligning the short edges of the outer collar (collar point edges), and pin.
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Page 6
Pin Collar to Neckline
- Pin the collar to the neckline, right sides together, aligning the control points.
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Page 6
Stitch Collar Short Edges
- Stitch the short edges of the collar on the machine with a seam allowance of 0.7 cm. Start or finish the stitching exactly at the intersection point of the marked lines.
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Page 6
Trim and Turn Collar
- In the collar corner, trim the seam allowances close to the stitching line. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances open (spread them to different sides) using a pressing ham (tailor's ham) for the collar's wet heat treatment (WHT). Turn the collar right side out, smooth out the corners, and press lightly.
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Page 6
Align Collar with Placket Center
- Place the edge of the collar towards the pressed line marking the center of the placket.
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Page 7
Pre-stitch Placket Section
- Pre-stitch the placket section on the sewing machine, using a seam allowance of 0.7 cm.
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Page 7
Enclose Collar in Placket
- Cover the collar from above with the free part of the placket, pin it, aligning all raw edges. (Direct the placket attachment allowances onto the placket).
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Page 7
Overlock Collar Neckline
- If the result is satisfactory, turn the collar back to the wrong side and stitch the collar with the overlocker.
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Page 7
Check Collar Insertion
- Turn the collar to the right side, check the quality of the collar corner insertion.
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Page 8
Overlock Placket Area
- In the area of the plackets, the left needle of the overlocker must pass exactly over the machine stitching line. Press lightly.
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Page 8
Position Twill Tape
- Preshrink the twill tape (or bias tape). Place the twill tape with the wrong side against the collar attachment seam allowance.
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Page 8
Pin Twill Tape
- Pin it so that the edge of the twill tape overlaps the overlocker stitching by 0.1 – 0.2 cm. Place the ends of the twill tape so they slightly overlap the plackets.
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Page 8
Stitch Twill Tape First Edge
- Stitch the twill tape in place, sewing at a distance of 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the edge of the twill tape. The stitching must land on the collar attachment stitching line.
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Page 9
Clip Front Corners
- On the front piece, make diagonal clips (notches), stopping 0.1 cm short of the end of the placket attachment stitching lines.
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Page 9
Align Plackets at Bottom
- Direct the allowance at the bottom edge of the slash (opening) inwards, place the right placket over the left one, and align the plackets.
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Page 9
Stitch Twill Tape Second Edge
- Stitch the second edge of the twill tape, sewing at a distance of 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the edge. Start and finish the stitching exactly at the placket attachment seam. Direct the placket attachment seam allowances towards the plackets. You can baste first.
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Page 10
Pin Bottom of Plackets
- Turn the front piece upwards. Align the bottom edges of the plackets, and pin. Direct the placket attachment seam allowances onto the plackets.
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Page 10
Stitch Bottom Edge
- Stitch the bottom edge, making the stitching exactly from one clip (notch) to the other clip (notch).
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Page 10
Baste Plackets
- Baste the inner sides of the plackets. Make the hand stitching from the right side, landing the needle in the ditch of the placket attachment seam, and from the wrong side, catching the free edge of the placket at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge (along the edge of the overlock stitching).
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Page 11
Pivot at Bottom Edge
- Reach the bottom edge of the placket. Pivot and stitch along the bottom edge of the placket, stitching in the ditch of the placket attachment seam, but here, place the stitching on the placket itself.
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Page 11
Stitch Plackets in the Ditch
- Stitch the plackets. Perform the stitching from the right side in the ditch of the placket attachment seam; the stitching runs along the front piece. Start the stitching at the collar setting seam.
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Page 11
Stitch Second Placket
- Pivot in the corner and stitch along the second placket, placing the stitching in the ditch of the seam on the front piece. Stop at the collar setting seam.
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Page 12
Stitch Side and Sleeve Seams
- Fold the jumper right sides together, aligning the side seams and the sleeve seams, and pin from the back side. In the underarm area, press the seam allowances of the armhole to opposite sides to avoid excessive bulk. Stitch on the overlocker, placing the stitching on the back piece side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
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Page 12
Overlock Placket Bottom
- Align the plackets along the bottom edge. The allowance of the bottom edge can be trimmed in half. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the plackets. Hide the thread tails of the overlock stitching within the fabric using a thick needle.
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Page 12
Topstitch Placket Allowances
- Mark the lines for topstitching the placket allowances. Measure 1.5 cm down from the placket attachment seam and mark a line. Extend the vertical placket attachment seam up to the marking line. Topstitch along the markings, catching the placket allowances from the wrong side.
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Page 12
Attach Sleeves
- Pin the sleeves into the armholes, right sides together; do not mix up the right and left sleeves, and align the control points. The control point on the sleeve cap relates to the front. Stitch the sleeves with the overlocker, placing the stitching on the jumper side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the jumper body.
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Page 13
Final Pressing
- Press the collar lightly. Perform the final wet heat treatment (WHT) of the entire garment.
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Page 13
Blind Hem Stitch
- Stitch the hem allowances with a hand blind hem stitch.
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Page 13
Fitting and Hem Preparation
- Perform a fitting (try-on) and determine the final length of the jumper and the sleeves. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the jumper and sleeves, placing the stitching on the right side of the piece. Press lightly. Refresh the pressing of the hem allowances (4 cm).
