Women's T-Shirts/Half Zip Top Pattern PDF | Short Sleeve Raglan Shirt | Womens Mock Neck Tee | Casual Zipper Top Sewing | L-XXL
1 / 6Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Page 5
Applying interfacing to the closure
- Attach a 3.0 cm wide strip of interfacing to the seam allowance along the marked line for the closure. For extra reinforcement, add a 4x3 cm strip of interfacing to the lower part of the closure.
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Marking the front side
- Mark the cutting line on the front side of the panel and indicate the endpoint of the closure, following the markings on the panel template.
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Marking the closure line
- Mark the cutting line on the wrong side of the front panel.
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Cutting the closure opening
- Cut along the marked line on the front piece, stopping 1.5 cm before the guide mark.
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Page 6
Pressing the side seams
- Press the seam allowances of the side seams toward the back.
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Page 6
Sewing the side seams
- Sew and finish the side edges at the same time using a 4-thread overlock. Allowance: 0.7 cm.
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Page 6
Pinning the side seams
- Pin the side edges together, aligning the cuts and notches, with the right sides facing each other.
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Pinning the sleeve pieces
- Pin the front and back sleeve pieces together along the top edge, matching the edges and notches, with right sides facing each other.
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Page 7
Pressing the bottom hem
- Press the hem allowance up 4.0 cm toward the inside of the garment.
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Page 7
Pressing the sleeve upper seam
- Press the seam allowance of the upper sleeve join toward the front part of the sleeve.
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Page 7
Stitching the sleeve upper edge
- Stitch and serge the front and back sections of the sleeve along the upper edge using a 4-thread overlock. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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Page 8
Pinning the lower sleeve edges
- Pin the lower edges of the sleeve, matching the cuts with right sides facing each other.
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Page 8
Pressing the sleeve hem
- Press the hem allowance of the sleeve up by 2.0 cm.
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Page 8
Pressing the lower sleeve seam
- Press the seam allowance of the sleeve's lower edge towards the back of the sleeve.
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Page 8
Sewing the lower sleeve edges
- Sew and serge the lower edges of the sleeve together using a 4-thread overlock stitch. Allow a 0.7 cm seam.
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Page 9
Sewing sleeves to armholes
- Sew and serge the sleeves into the armholes of the front and back pieces at the same time using a 4-thread overlock. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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Page 9
Pinning sleeves to armholes
- Pin the sleeves into the armholes of the front and back pieces, matching the edges and notches, with the right sides facing each other.
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Page 9
Stitching the bottom hem
- Stitch along the bottom edge of the garment using a flatlock machine. Use a hook to pull the thread ends to the wrong side within the seam.
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Page 9
Pressing armhole seams
- Press the armhole seam allowances toward the front and back pieces.
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Page 10
Pinning the collar to the neckline
- Pin the outer edge of the collar to the neckline, matching up the edges and notches, with right sides together.
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Page 10
Pressing the collar
- Press the collar lengthwise in half, with the wrong side facing in.
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Page 10
Interfacing the collar stand
- Apply a 1.5 cm wide strip of interfacing to the vertical edges of the collar stand from the inside, to reinforce the seam allowance for the zipper tape.
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Page 10
Stitching the sleeve hems
- Stitch along the bottom edge of the sleeve using a flatlock machine. Use a hook to pull the thread ends to the inside, hiding them in the seam.
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Page 11
Pressing the placket seam
- Press the seam allowance for the placket attachment toward the placket.
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Page 11
Sewing the collar to the neckline
- Sew the outer edge of the stand to the neckline. Allow a 1.0 cm seam.
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Page 12
Finishing the zipper bottom edge
- Finish the lower edge of the zipper tape. In our case, we used twill tape.
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Page 12
Preparing the zipper top edges
- Turn the top edges of the zipper tape 90 degrees and add the fasteners.
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Page 12
Measuring and trimming the zipper
- Measure the length of the zipper tape. Align the zipper tape with the marked closure line so that the top stopper sits 2 mm below the notch at the collar fold and the bottom stopper is 2 mm above the lower control mark on the closure. If necessary, trim the zipper tape to fit. Attach the bottom stopper.
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Page 13
Cutting corner notches
- Cut notches at a 45-degree angle, stopping just before the guide marks. 1 mm away from the marks.
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Page 13
Marking the zipper bottom
- On the wrong side of the zipper tape, mark a line at the bottom to indicate where the zipper ends. This line should be 2 mm below the pre-installed stopper. Also, mark reference points for the ends of the zipper on the tape, measuring 0.6 cm out from the center of the tape to each side.
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Page 13
Pinning the zipper bottom
- Pin the lower edge of the zipper tape following the marked lines, placing the right side of the zipper tape against the right side of the front panel, with the bottom edge of the zipper tape facing up toward the neckline edge. The marked line on the front panel should align with the one on the zipper.
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Page 13
Stitching the zipper bottom
- Stitch the lower edge of the zipper tape exactly along the marked line between the guide marks (1.0–1.2 cm), sewing from the wrong side.
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Page 14
Marking the second zipper side
- Zip up the tape and mark the second side to show where the collar seam should be attached. Make sure these seams line up evenly when the zipper is closed.
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Page 14
Sewing the first zipper side
- Sew the zipper tape to the right edge of the closure using a single presser foot. The seam allowance should be 1.0 cm from the zipper tape edge and 0.7 cm from the closure edge of the front panel.
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Pinning the first zipper side
- Turn the zipper tape inside out and pin one side of it to the right edge of the closure, making sure to leave a 2 mm gap from the top edge at the collar fold. The edge of the zipper tape should extend 3 mm past the closure edge of the front panel.
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Page 15
Pressing the collar inner edge
- Press the inner edge of the collar stand by 1.0 cm towards the wrong side.
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Page 15
Checking zipper alignment
- Fasten the zipper tape and check that the seams are properly aligned.
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Page 15
Sewing the second zipper side
- Pin the second side of the zipper tape with the marking to the left edge of the front closure, aligning the markings with the seam. Position the edges of the front closure, keeping them 3 mm away from the zipper tape edge. Stitch the second side of the zipper tape using a single presser foot. Allow a seam allowance of 1.0 cm from the edge of the zipper tape and 0.7 cm from the edge of the front closure.
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Page 15
Pressing the zipper tape
- Press the sewn zipper tape to set it in place.
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Pinning the collar vertical edge
- Pin the vertical edge of the collar, wrapping the top end of the attached zipper tape with the inner collar, matching the edges with right sides together. The zipper tape should stay between the collar’s seam allowances. The pressed inner edge of the collar should overlap the collar seam by 2 mm.
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Page 16
Turning the closure corners
- Turn the upper corners of the closure right side out and press them flat.
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Page 16
Basting the inner collar
- Baste the pressed inner edge of the collar stand over the neckline seam, overlapping the stitching by 2 mm.
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Page 16
Stitching the collar vertical edge
- Stitch along the vertical edge of the collar, making sure to catch the zipper tape seam, using a single presser foot. Allow for a 0.7 cm seam allowance.
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Page 17
Topstitching the collar stand
- Topstitch the pressed inner edge of the collar onto the collar seam at the neckline, sewing from the right side and following the groove of the seam. On the wrong side, make sure the stitch secures the pressed seam allowance of the collar.
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Page 17
Pressing the neckline seam
- Press the seam where the collar stand is attached to the neckline.
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Topstitching the zipper seam
- Topstitch along the zipper tape seam at a distance of 0.7 cm.
