Women's Pants/High Waisted Flare Jeans Pattern PDF | Front Seam Bootcut Pants | 70s Retro Trousers | Womens Denim Sewing | L-XXL
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1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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1. Fusible interfacing
- Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the cut pieces: outer and inner waistband for the back piece.
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1. Fusible interfacing
- Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the outer and inner waistband for the left front piece.
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1. Fusible interfacing
- Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the outer and inner waistband of the right front pant piece.
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1. Fusible interfacing
- Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket facings.
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1.3. Fly interfacing
- Fuse the fly interfacing to the fly allowance on the right front pant piece from the wrong side.
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1.2. Pocket interfacing
- Fuse a 1.0 cm-wide strip of interfacing to the pocket opening edge on the front pant pieces, on the wrong side.
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2.3. Pinning pocket facing
- Pin the pocket facing to the upper pocket bag, aligning the pocket-opening edges, with the wrong side of the facing against the right side of the pocket bag.
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1.4. Fly extension interfacing
- Fuse a 1.0 cm-wide strip of interfacing to the fly extension allowance on the wrong side of the left front pant piece.
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2.1. Pocket facing overlock
- Overlock the curved edge of the pocket facing.
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2.2. Pressing pocket facing
- Press the overlocked edge of the pocket facing.
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2.6. Pinning upper pocket bag
- Pin the upper pocket bag with the facing to the pocket opening edge on the front pant pieces, matching the edges and placing right sides together.
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2.7. Sewing upper pocket bag
- Sew the upper pocket bag with the facing to the pocket opening edge, leaving a small step at the end. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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2.5. Pressing pocket facing
- Press the pocket facing that’s been topstitched onto the upper pocket bag.
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2.4. Topstitching pocket facing
- Topstitch the pocket facing to the upper pocket bag all the way around, stitching 0.2 cm from the edges.
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2.11. Pinning pocket bags
- Pin the upper and lower pocket bags together along the curved edge, with right sides facing.
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2.9. Topstitching pocket opening
- Topstitch the seam allowance of the pocket-opening facing 0.1 cm from the edge, on the pocket facing side.
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2.8. Clipping seam allowance
- Clip the seam allowance at the corner of the step seam at the end of the pocket opening.
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2.10. Pressing pocket opening
- Press the pocket opening, forming a 0.1 cm turn to the front pant piece.
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2.12. Stitching pocket bags
- Stitch and simultaneously serge the upper and lower pocket bags together on a 4-thread overlock along the curved edge, matching the edges and notches. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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4. Sewing waist darts
- Sew the waist darts on the back pant pieces.
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2.14. Securing pocket bags
- Secure the pocket-bag seam allowances along the side and top edges of the pants, matching the edges and notches. Seam allowance: 0.3 cm.
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3. Marking waist darts
- Mark the placement of the waist darts on the back pant pieces, matching the markings on the back pattern piece.
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5. Pressing waist darts
- Press the dart allowance toward the center seam.
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7. Sewing side seams
- Sew the side seams. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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6. Pinning side seams
- Pin the side edges together, matching the raw edges and notches, with right sides facing.
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9. Pressing side seams
- Press the side-seam allowances toward the back pant piece.
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13. Sewing inseams
- Stitch and, at the same time, serge the inseam edges on a 4-thread overlock. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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10. Pressing hem allowance
- Press the hem allowance of the pant legs up 4.0 cm, folding it to the wrong side.
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12. Pinning inseams
- Pin the pants inseam edges together, matching the edges and notches, with right sides facing.
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11. Stretching back inseam
- Using an iron, gently stretch the back inseam so it matches the front inseam in length.
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15.2. Pinning center seam
- Pin the center edges of the pant legs together, matching the cut edges and notches, with right sides facing.
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15.1. Overlocking fly closure
- Serge the fly closure edge on the right front pant piece, stitching along the center seam 3.0–4.0 cm below where the fly begins.
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14. Pressing inseams
- Press the inseam seam allowances toward the back pant piece.
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15.3. Marking closure start
- Mark the start level of the closure on the center seam of the pant legs, matching the markings on the front pattern piece.
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15.4. Sewing seat seam
- Sew the seat seam to the marked level where the closure begins. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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15.6. Pressing fly allowance
- Press the fly allowance by folding along the notch at the top edge of the pants, turning the fly allowance toward the wrong side.
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15.7. Pressing seat seam
- Press the seat-seam allowance on the back pieces over a 10 cm section. Along the inseam area, press the seat-seam allowance open (on edge).
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15.5. Overlocking crotch and fly
- Overlock the crotch seam allowance and the fly allowance on the left front piece, folding back the finished zipper-fly allowance of the right front piece.
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15.10. Turning fly facing
- Turn the fly facing right side out and press, aligning the vertical edges.
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15.8. Pinning fly facing
- Pin the facing along the lower edge, matching the edges with right sides together.
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15.9. Sewing fly facing
- Stitch the facing along the lower edge. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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15.11. Overlocking fly facing
- Serge the vertical edge of the fly facing. Tuck the serger thread tails into the underlay stitching using a hook.
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15.14. Measuring zipper
- Place the zipper tape against the fly and measure the required length: the top zipper stop should sit 1.2 cm below the top edge of the pants.
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15.13. Preshrinking zipper
- Preshrink the zipper to prevent it from warping.
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15.14. Adjusting bottom stop
- Using pliers, reposition the zipper tape’s bottom stop to the new level.
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15.14. Positioning bottom stop
- Place the bottom stop 0.2 cm above the start of the center-seam stitching line (the reference mark for the start of the fly).
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15.14. Trimming zipper
- Trim off the extra zipper tape length, leaving a 2.0 cm allowance.
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15.15. Pinning zipper tape
- Pin one side of the zipper tape to the zipper opening edge on the left half.
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15.19. Pressing zipper seam
- Press the stitching line where the zipper tape and fly facing are sewn on, directing the left pant front toward the seam allowances of the zipper-tape stitching.
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15.18. Sewing fly facing
- Stitch the fly facing to the left zipper opening using a single-toe presser foot. Seam allowance 1.0 cm.
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15.17. Pinning fly shield
- Pin the fly shield to the left side of the zipper opening, matching the edges of the serged seam allowances and laying it on the right side of the pants.
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15.16. Sewing zipper tape
- Stitch one side of the zipper tape to the zipper opening edge on the left pant front, using a single-toe zipper foot. Seam allowance 1.0 cm.
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15.20. Topstitching fly facing
- Sew a topstitch along the seam where the zipper tape and fly facing are attached, stitching 0.1 cm from the attachment seam.
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15.21. Pinning second zipper side
- Zip up the zipper, then pin its other side to the right side of the closure, matching the notches along the top edge of the pants. Fold the fly shield toward the left front.
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15.22. Marking zipper placement
- Mark the placement line for the zipper tape on the fly extension seam allowance.
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15.23. Re-pinning zipper
- Re-pin the second side of the zipper tape to the fly extension seam allowance, following the marked line.
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15.24. Sewing zipper to fly extension
- Sew in the zipper tape, aligning it with the marked line on the fly seam allowance, keeping 0.1 cm in from the edge of the zipper tape.
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15.25. Marking fly topstitching
- Mark the fly topstitching on the right side of the closure.
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15.26. Securing fly shield
- Raise the presser foot, smooth out the fly shield, and make a through-and-through bartack 1.0–1.5 cm long, reaching the center seam.
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15.26. Topstitching fly
- Topstitch the fly in two passes: stitch along the marked line from the top edge of the pants, stopping 1.0–1.5 cm before the center seam, with the fly shield folded to the wrong side. Finish with a backstitch.
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15.27. Securing fly shield corner
- Topstitch the fly shield corner to the edge of the fly seam allowance.
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16.1. Pinning outer waistband
- Pin the side edges of the outer waistband pieces right sides together, matching the edges and notches.
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16.3. Sewing waistband side seams
- Sew the side edges of the outer and inner waistband pieces. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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16.5. Pinning waistband layers
- Pin the outer waistband to the inner waistband along the top edge, right sides together, matching the edges and side seams.
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16.4. Pressing waistband seams
- Press open the side-seam allowances on both the outer and inner waistbands.
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16.2. Pinning inner waistband
- Pin the side edges of the inner waistband pieces right sides together, matching the edges and notches.
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16.6. Stitching waistband layers
- Stitch the outer waistband to the inner waistband along the top edge. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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16.9. Pressing waistband top edge
- Press the waistband along the top edge from the inner waistband side, forming a 0.1 cm roll from the outer waistband.
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16.8. Topstitching waistband facing
- Topstitch the waistband facing seam at 0.1 cm from the inner waistband side.
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16.7. Clipping waistband curve
- Clip the seam allowance of the waistband’s upper edge facing seam at the curved areas.
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17.1. Pinning waistband to pants
- Pin the outer waistband to the top edge of the pants, right sides together, matching the raw edges and side seams.
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16.10. Trimming waistband height
- Trim the waistband to the correct height using a ruler. The waistband height, with one edge finished with a facing, should be 5.5 cm.
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17.4. Overlocking inner waistband
- Finish the inner edge of the inner waistband with an overlock stitch.
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17.2. Sewing waistband to pants
- Sew the outer waistband to the top edge of the pants. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
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17.3. Pressing waistband seam
- Press the seam allowance from attaching the outer waistband, directing it toward the waistband.
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17.6. Stitching waistband ends
- Stitch the waistband ends. Seam allowance 1.0 cm.
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17.5. Pinning waistband ends
- Pin the ends of the outer waistband to the ends of the inner waistband, folding along the seam where the waistband’s upper edge is faced; place right sides together and align the raw edges.
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17.7. Trimming waistband corners
- Trim the seam allowances at the upper corner of the waistband-end facing seam.
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17.9. Pinning inner waistband
- Pin the serged edge of the inner waistband to the seam where the outer waistband is attached. Baste if needed.
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17.8. Turning waistband corners
- Turn the waistband corners right side out and press, creating a 0.1 overhang from the outer waistband piece.
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17.10. Topstitching waistband ditch
- Sew a topstitch along the seam where the outer waistband is attached, stitching right in the seam ditch. Remove the basting threads.
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17.11. Pressing waistband
- Press the waistband attachment seam.
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18. Marking buttonhole
- Chalk-mark the buttonhole placement at the end of the right side of the waistband.
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21. Marking button placement
- Mark the button placement on the left side of the waistband with tailor’s chalk.
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19. Stitching buttonhole
- Stitch the buttonhole on a home sewing machine set to the correct program, or use a specialized machine.
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20. Cleaning buttonhole
- Clean any loose threads from the buttonhole.
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23. Overcasting hem
- Overcast the lower raw edge of the pant legs. Using a hook, tuck the overcasting threads into the cover stitch on the wrong side.
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24. Topstitching hem
- Sew a topstitch along the bottom of the pant legs, 3.8 cm in from the edge.
