Women's Jumpsuits/Noemi Sleeveless Jumpsuit | Open Back Women’s Romper PDF Sewing Pattern | Autumn or winter outfit | XS–M | A4, US Letter, Plotter
1 / 6Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Stitching Darts
- Stitch the darts on all pieces. Transfer the dart markings to the corresponding pieces or to the other side of the piece. Fold the darts along the center line, and pin or baste. Stitch the darts. Press lightly.
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Pressing Bust Darts
- Press the bust dart allowance on the front piece upwards, and press the dart allowance on the front lining piece downwards.
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Fusing Edges
- Fuse the neckline and armhole edges on the back and front pieces with bias grain non-woven fusible tape on the wrong side. Apply the tape 1.5 cm wide, starting 2-3 mm from the raw edge. The machine stitching line must land exactly on the main thread (grainline) of the tape. After fusing, compare the length of the edges with the paper pattern—they must match. Fuse the center back seam and the center back seam of the trousers pieces with straight grain non-woven fusible tape under the zipper attachment.
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Pressing Back Waist Darts
- Press the waist dart allowance on the back piece towards the center, and press the waist dart allowance on the back lining piece towards the side seams.
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Pressing Trouser Waist Darts
- Press the waist dart allowance on the front and back trouser pieces towards the seat seam (crotch seam).
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Joining Shoulder Seams
- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, joining at the shoulder seams. Pin or baste. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Joining Side Seams
- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, joining at the side seams. Pin or baste. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Assembling Lining
- Similarly, join the side and shoulder seams of the front and back lining pieces. With one exception: an opening must be left in one of the side seams for the subsequent turning of the bodice.
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Joining Bodice and Lining (Left Armhole)
- Place the jumpsuit bodice and the bodice lining right sides together, aligning the left armhole line. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Lining Opening View
- View of the opening from the right side of the lining.
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Pressing Seams Open
- Press the shoulder and side seam allowances lightly, then press them open (to opposite sides).
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Understitching Armhole
- Direct the seam allowances onto the lining and topstitch on the right side of the lining, setting the stitching 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam line. After completing the stitching along the allowances, make clips/notches, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
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Trimming Armhole Seam Allowance
- Reinforce the seam where the stitching joins in a circle with a backstitch. Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
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Trimming Armhole Corners
- Trim the corners of the shoulder and side seam allowances near the armhole.
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Page 8
Pressing Armhole Roll
- Turn the lining to the wrong side of the front and back pieces, and press, creating a slight 'roll' (understitch/overedge). It is more convenient to press from the lining side, as this allows you to control the width of the roll.
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Trimming Right Armhole Corners
- Trim the corners of the shoulder and side seam allowances near the armhole.
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Joining Right Armhole (Back)
- Then, on the other side, reach the open section of the right armhole through the open waist edge. Place the jumpsuit bodice and the bodice lining right sides together along the right armhole line, aligning the back side. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement), from the side seam to the shoulder seam.
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Joining Right Armhole (Front)
- Through the open waist edge, join the jumpsuit bodice and the lining along the right armhole line. Place the jumpsuit bodice and the bodice lining right sides together along the right armhole line, aligning the front side. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement), from the side seam to the shoulder seam.
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Trimming Right Armhole Allowance
- Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
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Joining Neckline
- Turn the bodice to the wrong side (as shown in the photo). Join the jumpsuit bodice and the lining, right sides together, along the neckline line. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement). Start and finish the stitching 2 – 3 cm away from the center back edge.
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Page 10
Pressing Right Armhole Roll
- Turn the lining to the wrong side of the front and back pieces and press, creating a slight 'roll' (understitch/overedge).
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Page 10
Trimming Neckline Corners
- Trim the corners of the shoulder and side seam allowances near the armhole.
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Understitching Right Armhole
- Direct the seam allowances onto the lining and topstitch on the right side of the lining, setting the stitching 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam line. Use backstitches (reinforcement). In two steps. After completing the stitching along the allowances, make clips/notches, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
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Pressing Neckline Roll
- Turn the bodice to the right side. Press the neckline, creating a slight 'roll' (understitch/overedge). Press lightly.
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Trimming Neckline Allowance
- Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
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Pressing Trouser Hem Allowance
- Fold the trouser hem allowance (4 cm) to the wrong side. Press lightly. If you are unsure about the final length of the trousers, skip this step.
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Clipping Neckline Allowance
- Trim, stopping 3-4 cm short of the center back (as shown in the photo). Place clips/notches on the allowance, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
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Overlocking Trouser Inseams
- Serge/Overlock the raw edges. Place the stitching on the back trouser piece side. Press lightly. Then press the allowance towards the front pieces.
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Overlocking Trouser Side Seams
- Serge/Overlock the allowance. Place the stitching on the back trouser piece side. Press lightly. Then press the allowance towards the front.
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Joining Trouser Side Seams
- Place the front and back trouser pieces right sides together, joining at the side seam. Align the control points. Pin. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Joining Trouser Inseams
- Place the front and back trouser pieces right sides together, aligning the inseam (crotch seam). Pin. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 13
Joining Trouser Legs
- Turn one trouser leg to the right side; leave the second one turned inside out (wrong side out). Take the trouser leg turned to the right side and insert it into the second trouser leg (which is wrong side out), joining the legs right sides together along the crotch seam. Pin or baste, aligning the seams and control points for the zipper attachment. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement). Stitch from either side. Press lightly.
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Overlocking Crotch Seam Edges
- Serge/Overlock the crotch seam edges. Place the stitching on the right side of the trousers. Press lightly.
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Page 13
Pressing Crotch Seam Open (Front View)
- Then press the seam allowances open (to opposite sides) on the straight sections. View from the front.
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Pressing Waist Seam Allowance
- Press the seam allowance lightly and then press it towards the jumpsuit bodice.
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Positioning Invisible Zipper
- Pre-shrink the invisible zipper tape. Lay the jumpsuit with the wrong side facing you. Unzip the zipper; place one edge of the zipper tape right side down (face side) onto the right side of the jumpsuit. The top stop of the zipper should be placed 1.2 cm below the neckline raw edge. Pin the zipper in place, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the garment, and baste.
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Page 14
Joining Bodice and Trousers
- Place the bodice of the jumpsuit onto the trousers, right sides together, aligning the darts and side seams. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance.
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Page 15
Positioning Second Zipper Side
- Unzip the zipper. Place the second edge of the zipper tape right side down (face side) onto the right side of the jumpsuit. Place the top stopper of the zipper 1.2 cm below the neckline raw edge. Align the control point on the zipper tape with the waist seam on the jumpsuit. Place the lower control point on the tape, stopping 2–3 mm short of the lower control point marked on the jumpsuit. Pin the zipper in place, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the garment, and baste.
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Stitching Second Zipper Side
- Turn the zipper teeth and place them under the foot so that the teeth are positioned to the right of the needle, in the groove of the foot. Stitch the zipper, starting the stitching from the upper stopper and finishing at the lower control point on the tape. Secure the stitching with backstitches at the beginning and end.
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Marking Zipper Control Points
- Zip the zipper closed. Mark control points on the zipper tape: at the waistline and at the point where the zipper stitching ends (as shown in the photo).
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Stitching First Zipper Side
- Attach the invisible zipper foot to the sewing machine. Turn the zipper teeth and place them under the foot so that the teeth are positioned to the left of the needle, in the groove of the foot. Stitch the zipper, starting the stitching from the upper stopper and finishing 2–3 mm before the lower control point. Secure the stitching with backstitches at the beginning and end.
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Closing Zipper
- Turn the free end of the zipper to the wrong side of the jumpsuit. Close the zipper by pulling the slider through the opening left before the crotch seam. Check the quality of the zipper attachment. Press lightly using a pressing cloth.
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Finishing Neckline at Zipper
- Close the open section of the neckline in the zipper area. Fold the zipper tape together with the allowance to the center back seam of the bodice lining, and pin. Stitch the open section along the neckline edge of the back lining with a 1 cm seam allowance; use backstitches (reinforcement).
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Stitching Back Lining to Zipper
- View from the back lining side. Turn the 1 cm allowance along the bottom edge of the back lining as shown in the photo. Stitch on the sewing machine, using a single-sided zipper foot, as close as possible to the zipper teeth. Use backstitches (reinforcement).
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Aligning Back Lining and Zipper
- Place the back piece and the back lining right sides together along the center back seam, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the open edge of the center back seam of the back lining. Pin or baste.
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Turning Bodice Right Side Out
- Turn to the right side (face side). Press lightly.
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Grasping Allowances Through Side Opening
- Through the opening in the side seam, grasp all three allowances along the waist edge and turn the garment right side out through the opening.
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Waistline Lining Pinned View
- View of the pinned waistline lining from the wrong side.
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Preparing Waistline Lining
- Lay the jumpsuit with the wrong side facing you. The open edge of the bodice lining along the waistline should be turned under and pinned so that it looks as if this edge has been finished/processed.
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Stitching Waist Seam
- Place the stitching on the bodice so that it runs directly over the stitching connecting the bodice and the trousers. Start the stitching from the waist dart on the back piece on one side and finish it at the waist dart on the back piece on the other side. Use backstitches (reinforcement). The stitching can be done in two steps.
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Closing Openings Near Zipper
- View of the lining from the front. Close the open openings near the zipper with a blind hand stitch.
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Turning Bodice and Pressing
- Turn the bodice to the right side. Press lightly.
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Basting Waist Edges
- Re-pin and start basting all three raw edges of the waist together. The jumpsuit trousers are located between the bodice and the bodice lining layers. Stitch on the sewing machine.
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Closing Side Seam Opening
- Close the open opening in the side seam of the lining with a blind hand stitch.
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Sewing Trouser Hem
- Pin the allowance with pins or baste. Sew with a blind hand stitch if the fabric allows, using the thread you are sewing with. Alternatively, topstitch the allowance on the machine, placing the stitching on the right side of the trousers at a distance of 3.8 cm from the hem line.
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Overlocking Trouser Bottom
- Perform a try-on of the jumpsuit and determine the final trouser length. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the trousers. Place the stitching on the right side of the trousers. Hide the overlocker thread tail inside the seam.
