Women's Jumpsuits/Noemi Sleeveless Jumpsuit | Women’s Romper PDF Pattern | Elegant Evening or office outfit | Winter Project | L–XXL | A4, US Letter, Plotter
1 / 6Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Page 5
Pressing Bust Darts
- Press the bust dart allowance on the front piece upwards, and press the dart allowance on the front lining piece downwards.
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Page 5
Stitching Darts
- Stitch the darts on all pieces. Transfer the dart markings to the corresponding pieces or to the other side of the piece. Fold the darts along the center line, and pin or baste. Stitch the darts. Press lightly.
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Page 5
Fusing
- Fuse the neckline and armhole edges on the back and front pieces with bias grain non-woven fusible tape on the wrong side. Apply the tape 1.5 cm wide, starting 2-3 mm from the raw edge. The machine stitching line must land exactly on the main thread (grainline) of the tape. After fusing, compare the length of the edges with the paper pattern—they must match. Fuse the center back seam and the center back seam of the trousers pieces with straight grain non-woven fusible tape under the zipper attachment.
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Pressing Waist Darts (Trousers)
- Press the waist dart allowance on the front and back trouser pieces towards the seat seam (crotch seam).
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Page 6
Joining Side Seams
- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, joining at the side seams. Pin or baste. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 6
Joining Shoulder Seams
- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, joining at the shoulder seams. Pin or baste. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 6
Pressing Waist Darts (Back)
- Press the waist dart allowance on the back piece towards the center, and press the waist dart allowance on the back lining piece towards the side seams.
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Page 7
Joining Lining Seams
- Similarly, join the side and shoulder seams of the front and back lining pieces. With one exception: an opening must be left in one of the side seams for the subsequent turning of the bodice.
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Page 7
Joining Left Armhole
- Place the jumpsuit bodice and the bodice lining right sides together, aligning the left armhole line. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 7
Lining Opening View
- View of the opening from the right side of the lining.
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Page 7
Pressing Seams Open
- Press the shoulder and side seam allowances lightly, then press them open (to opposite sides).
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Page 8
Trimming Corners
- Trim the corners of the shoulder and side seam allowances near the armhole.
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Page 8
Trimming Armhole Allowance
- Reinforce the seam where the stitching joins in a circle with a backstitch. Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
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Page 8
Pressing Armhole Roll
- Turn the lining to the wrong side of the front and back pieces, and press, creating a slight "roll" (understitch/overedge). It is more convenient to press from the lining side, as this allows you to control the width of the roll.
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Page 8
Topstitching Armhole Lining
- Direct the seam allowances onto the lining and topstitch on the right side of the lining, setting the stitching 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam line. After completing the stitching along the allowances, make clips/notches, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
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Page 9
Joining Right Armhole (Front)
- Through the open waist edge, join the jumpsuit bodice and the lining along the right armhole line. Place the jumpsuit bodice and the bodice lining right sides together along the right armhole line, aligning the front side. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement), from the side seam to the shoulder seam.
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Page 9
Joining Right Armhole (Back)
- Then, on the other side, reach the open section of the right armhole through the open waist edge. Place the jumpsuit bodice and the bodice lining right sides together along the right armhole line, aligning the back side. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement), from the side seam to the shoulder seam.
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Page 9
Trimming Right Armhole Corners
- Trim the corners of the shoulder and side seam allowances near the armhole.
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Page 9
Trimming Right Armhole Allowance
- Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
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Page 10
Topstitching Right Armhole Lining
- Direct the seam allowances onto the lining and topstitch on the right side of the lining, setting the stitching 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam line. Use backstitches (reinforcement). In two steps. After completing the stitching along the allowances, make clips/notches, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
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Page 10
Pressing Right Armhole Roll
- Turn the lining to the wrong side of the front and back pieces and press, creating a slight "roll" (understitch/overedge).
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Page 10
Joining Neckline
- Turn the bodice to the wrong side (as shown in the photo). Join the jumpsuit bodice and the lining, right sides together, along the neckline line. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement). Start and finish the stitching 2 – 3 cm away from the center back edge.
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Page 10
Trimming Neckline Corners
- Trim the corners of the shoulder and side seam allowances near the armhole.
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Page 11
Pressing Neckline Roll
- Turn the bodice to the right side. Press the neckline, creating a slight "roll" (understitch/overedge). Press lightly.
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Page 11
Trimming Neckline Allowance
- Trim the seam allowance down to 0.5 – 0.7 cm.
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Page 11
Pressing Trouser Hem
- Fold the trouser hem allowance (4 cm) to the wrong side. Press lightly. If you are unsure about the final length of the trousers, skip this step.
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Page 11
Notching Neckline Allowance
- Trim, stopping 3-4 cm short of the center back (as shown in the photo). Place clips/notches on the allowance, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
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Page 12
Overlocking Trouser Side Seams
- Serge/Overlock the allowance. Place the stitching on the back trouser piece side. Press lightly. Then press the allowance towards the front.
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Page 12
Overlocking Trouser Inseams
- Serge/Overlock the raw edges. Place the stitching on the back trouser piece side. Press lightly. Then press the allowance towards the front pieces.
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Page 12
Joining Trouser Inseams
- Place the front and back trouser pieces right sides together, aligning the inseam (crotch seam). Pin. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 12
Joining Trouser Side Seams
- Place the front and back trouser pieces right sides together, joining at the side seam. Align the control points. Pin. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 13
Joining Crotch Seam
- Turn one trouser leg to the right side; leave the second one turned inside out (wrong side out). Take the trouser leg turned to the right side and insert it into the second trouser leg (which is wrong side out), joining the legs right sides together along the crotch seam. Pin or baste, aligning the seams and control points for the zipper attachment. Stitch on the machine with a 1 cm seam allowance, using backstitches (reinforcement). Stitch from either side. Press lightly.
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Page 13
Overlocking Crotch Seam
- Serge/Overlock the crotch seam edges. Place the stitching on the right side of the trousers. Press lightly.
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Page 13
Pressing Crotch Seam Open (Front)
- Then press the seam allowances open (to opposite sides) on the straight sections. View from the front.
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Page 14
Pressing Waist Seam
- Press the seam allowance lightly and then press it towards the jumpsuit bodice.
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Page 14
Joining Bodice and Trousers
- Place the bodice of the jumpsuit onto the trousers, right sides together, aligning the darts and side seams. Pin or baste. Stitch on the sewing machine with a 1 cm seam allowance.
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Page 14
Basting Invisible Zipper
- Pre-shrink the invisible zipper tape. Lay the jumpsuit with the wrong side facing you. Unzip the zipper; place one edge of the zipper tape right side down (face side) onto the right side of the jumpsuit. The top stop of the zipper should be placed 1.2 cm below the neckline raw edge. Pin the zipper in place, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the garment, and baste.
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Page 15
Marking Zipper Control Points
- Zip the zipper closed. Mark control points on the zipper tape: at the waistline and at the point where the zipper stitching ends (as shown in the photo).
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Page 15
Stitching First Zipper Side
- Attach the invisible zipper foot to the sewing machine. Turn the zipper teeth and place them under the foot so that the teeth are positioned to the left of the needle, in the groove of the foot. Stitch the zipper, starting the stitching from the upper stopper and finishing 2–3 mm before the lower control point. Secure the stitching with backstitches at the beginning and end.
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Page 15
Basting Second Zipper Side
- Unzip the zipper. Place the second edge of the zipper tape right side down (face side) onto the right side of the jumpsuit. Place the top stopper of the zipper 1.2 cm below the neckline raw edge. Align the control point on the zipper tape with the waist seam on the jumpsuit. Place the lower control point on the tape, stopping 2–3 mm short of the lower control point marked on the jumpsuit. Pin the zipper in place, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the garment, and baste.
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Page 15
Stitching Second Zipper Side
- Turn the zipper teeth and place them under the foot so that the teeth are positioned to the right of the needle, in the groove of the foot. Stitch the zipper, starting the stitching from the upper stopper and finishing at the lower control point on the tape. Secure the stitching with backstitches at the beginning and end.
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Page 16
Closing Neckline at Zipper
- Close the open section of the neckline in the zipper area. Fold the zipper tape together with the allowance to the center back seam of the bodice lining, and pin. Stitch the open section along the neckline edge of the back lining with a 1 cm seam allowance; use backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 16
Closing Zipper
- Turn the free end of the zipper to the wrong side of the jumpsuit. Close the zipper by pulling the slider through the opening left before the crotch seam. Check the quality of the zipper attachment. Press lightly using a pressing cloth.
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Pinning Back Lining to Zipper
- Place the back piece and the back lining right sides together along the center back seam, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the open edge of the center back seam of the back lining. Pin or baste.
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Stitching Back Lining to Zipper
- View from the back lining side. Turn the 1 cm allowance along the bottom edge of the back lining as shown in the photo. Stitch on the sewing machine, using a single-sided zipper foot, as close as possible to the zipper teeth. Use backstitches (reinforcement).
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Page 17
Turning Bodice Through Side Opening
- Through the opening in the side seam, grasp all three allowances along the waist edge and turn the garment right side out through the opening.
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Page 17
Bodice Lining Waist View
- View of the pinned bodice lining along the waistline.
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Page 17
Pinning Bodice Lining Waist
- Lay the jumpsuit with the wrong side facing you. The open edge of the bodice lining along the waistline should be turned under and pinned so that it looks as if this edge has been finished/processed.
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Page 17
Pressing Bodice
- Turn to the right side (face side). Press lightly.
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Stitching Waist Edges
- Place the stitching on the bodice so that it runs directly over the stitching connecting the bodice and the trousers. Start the stitching from the waist dart on the back piece on one side and finish it at the waist dart on the back piece on the other side. Use backstitches (reinforcement). The stitching can be done in two steps.
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Closing Openings Near Zipper
- View of the lining from the front. Close the open openings near the zipper with a blind hand stitch.
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Basting Waist Edges
- Re-pin and start basting all three raw edges of the waist together. The jumpsuit trousers are located between the bodice and the bodice lining layers. Stitch on the sewing machine.
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Pressing Waistline
- Turn the bodice to the right side. Press lightly.
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Page 19
Sewing Trouser Hem
- Pin the allowance with pins or baste. Sew with a blind hand stitch if the fabric allows, using the thread you are sewing with. Alternatively, topstitch the allowance on the machine, placing the stitching on the right side of the trousers at a distance of 3.8 cm from the hem line.
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Closing Lining Side Opening
- Close the open opening in the side seam of the lining with a blind hand stitch.
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Page 19
Overlocking Trouser Hem
- Perform a try-on of the jumpsuit and determine the final trouser length. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the trousers. Place the stitching on the right side of the trousers. Hide the overlocker thread tail inside the seam.
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Page 19
Pressing Trouser Hem Allowance
- Press the trouser hem allowance (4 cm).
