Women's Tops/Ruffle Wrap Top Sewing Pattern: Y2K Draped Shirt (A4, Letter, Plotter) US 2-12
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Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Interfacing
- Apply interfacing to the reverse side of the cut pieces: Back neck facing, Facings. Attach a 1.0 cm wide strip of interfacing to the neckline edge on the wrong side.
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Marking Bust Darts
- Mark the placement of the bust darts on the panel from the inside, following the pattern markings.
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Pressing Bust Darts
- Press the allowance of the bust dart upwards.
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Sewing Shoulder Darts
- Sew the shoulder darts on the back piece.
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Marking Shoulder Darts
- Mark the placement of the shoulder darts on the inside of the back according to the template markings.
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Sewing Shoulder Edges
- Sew the shoulder edges. Allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Pressing Shoulder Darts
- Press the shoulder dart allowances towards the center back.
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Pinning Shoulder Edges
- Pin the shoulder edges together, aligning the cuts with the right sides facing each other.
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Pressing Shoulder Seams
- Press open the allowances of the shoulder seams.
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Sewing Side Edges
- Sew the side edges together. Seam allowance is 1.0 cm.
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Overcasting Side Seams
- Overcast the seam allowances on the side seams.
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Pressing Side Seams
- Press the seam allowances of the side seams toward the back-piece.
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Pinning Side Edges
- Pin the side edges together, matching the edges with the right sides facing each other.
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Pressing Ruffle Side Seams
- Press the seam allowances of the side seams of the ruffle towards the back ruffle.
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Finishing Ruffle Side Seams
- Finish the seam allowances of the ruffle's side seams.
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Pinning Ruffle Side Edges
- Pin the side edges of the front ruffle to the back ruffle, aligning the edges and notches with the right sides facing each other.
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Sewing Ruffle Side Edges
- Sew the side edges of the front ruffle with the back ruffle, leaving a 1.0 cm allowance.
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Stitching Gathering Rows
- Stitch a double row of gathering along the top edge of the ruffle. The start and end of the stitches should align with the notches on the top edge of the front panel ruffle. Place the first stitch line 0.8 cm from the edge, and the second one 2-3 mm away from the first, towards the edge. The stitch length for this gathering should be 4 mm.
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Gathering the Ruffle
- Gather the gathering stitch along the ruffle to the size indicated on the pattern for the front and back ruffles.
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Pinning Ruffle to Body
- Pin the ruffle to the bottom edge of the front and back pieces, evenly distributing the gathers along the ruffle, aligning the edges, side seams, and notches, with right sides facing each other.
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Sewing Ruffle to Body
- Sew the ruffle to the bottom edge of the front and back panels. Allowance: 1.0 cm.
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Pressing Ruffle Seam
- Press the seam allowances of the ruffle attachment to the front and back panels.
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Pinning Facings
- Pin the shoulder and side edges of the facings and the back facing, aligning the edges with the right sides together.
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Finishing Ruffle Seam
- Finish the seam allowance attaching the ruffle to the front and back.
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Overlocking Facing Edges
- Overlock the inner edges of the facings and back neckline facing.
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Pressing Facing Seams
- Press open the seam allowances at the shoulders and the side seams of the lapels and back facing.
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Sewing Facing Seams
- Join the shoulder and side seams of the lapels and back facing. Allowance 1.0 cm.
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Pinning Facing to Neckline
- Pin the facing and back neckline to the edges of the front and back necklines and the borders, aligning the edges, notches, and shoulder seams, with right sides together.
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Pressing Facing Edges
- Press the finished edges of the front facings and back neckline.
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Sewing Neckline Facing
- Finish the edges of the fronts and the neckline of the front and back pieces. Seam allowance is 0.7 cm.
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Understitching Neckline
- Stitch the neckline seam of the front and back pieces with a 0.1 cm seam allowance from the side of the facings and back facing, stopping the stitch at the corner.
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Trimming Corners
- Trim the seam allowance at the corner of the collar and neckline.
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Trimming Neckline Curves
- Trim the allowances of the neckline seam on the front panel and back at the curves.
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Pressing Neckline
- Press the edges of the front and neckline of the front and back pieces, creating a 0.1 cm roll from the front, back, and ruffle details.
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Sewing Back Armhole Facing
- Finish the armhole of the back with a back facing. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
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Sewing Front Armhole Facing
- Finish the armhole of the front panel with facing. Seam allowance 0.7 cm.
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Pinning Armhole Facing
- Pin the facing edges to the armhole between the shoulder and side seams, aligning edges, notches, and seams by placing right sides together.
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Pinning Back Armhole Facing
- Pin the edges of the back armhole facing to the back armhole, between the shoulder and side seams, aligning the edges, notches, and seams with right sides together.
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Topstitching Armhole Facing
- Topstitch the armhole facing seam at 0.1 cm from the side of the lapels and back facing in two passes, starting from the side seam.
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Notching Armhole Curves
- Add notches to the seam allowance when rounding the armhole facing.
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Pressing Armholes
- Press the faced armhole, creating a 0.1 cm roll from the front and back pieces.
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Securing Facings
- Secure the overlocked edge of the facing and the back neckline facing to the side seam allowance.
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Pinning Bottom Facing Edge
- Pin the bottom edge of the facing to the lower edge of the garment's ruffle, folding along the seam of the facing, with the right sides facing each other.
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Finishing Bottom Edge
- Finish the bottom edge of the vest along with the lower part of the facings. Conceal the overcasting threads in the seam using a hook.
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Trimming Corners
- Trim the seam allowance at the corner of the edge finish.
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Stitching Bottom Edge
- Stitch the bottom edge of the panel. Allowance: 3.0 cm.
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Turning Corners Out
- Turn inside-out the tailored corners of the lapels, smoothing out the edges.
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Pressing Lower Edge
- Press the finished lower edge of the front piece, creating a 0.1 cm turnover from the frill detail of the panel.
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Marking Buttonhole
- Mark the location for the buttonhole on the right edge of the front according to the markings on the pattern template.
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Decorative Hem Stitching
- Stitch a decorative seam along the bottom of the ruffle, keeping a distance of 2.8 cm from the pressed edge. If needed, baste the allowance beforehand and mark the seam line.
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Stitching Buttonhole
- Stitch the buttonhole using a home sewing machine set to the right program, or use a specialized machine. The size of the buttonhole depends on the size of the button.
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Sewing Button
- Sew the button onto the left edge of the panel.
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Marking Button Placement
- Mark where the button will be sewn on the left edge of the front panel.
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Marking Additional Fasteners
- Mark the spot for sewing the button on the left edge of the front and on the right edge of the front from the facing side. Mark according to the markings on the patterns for the ruffle of the panel and facing.
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Sewing Additional Fasteners
- Sew buttons according to the markings.
