Women's T-Shirts/Thumbhole Crop Top Pattern PDF | Long Sleeve Activewear Shirt | Fitted Gym Top | Ribbed Knit Yoga Tee | XS-M
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Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Preparing the Neckline Facing
- Fold the neckline facing piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together. Use your iron to give the neckline a smooth, rounded shape. As you press, gently stretch the outer edge while easing in the fold.
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Side Seams
- With right sides together, align the front and back pieces along the side edges and pin together from the back side. Sew along the seam from the back side. Press with an iron, then press the seam allowances toward the front.
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Shoulder Seams
- Place the front and back pieces right sides together, matching up the shoulder seams. Pin from the back side. Press with an iron, then press the seam allowances toward the front.
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Pinning the Facing to the Neckline
- Be sure to make small notches along the center front and back lines on both the front and back pieces. Turn the garment inside out and place the facing into the neckline. With right sides together, align the facing and neckline, matching the marking points, and pin them in place. The neckline seam on the facing should meet the marking at the center back. Gently stretch the facing between the matching points and pin from the facing side.
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Shaping the Facing
- Refresh the pressing of the facing. Using an iron, gently shape it into a curve by steaming along the fold line and lightly stretching the open edges as you go.
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Joining the Neckline Facing
- Join the neckline facing into a ring by folding it right sides together and matching the short edges. Pin in place. Sew the seam with a 1.0 cm allowance. Press the seam, then open the seam allowances and press them flat in opposite directions.
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Attaching the Facing
- Attach the facing using an overlock machine, stitching from the facing side. It’s best to start your seam around the shoulder area so the join is hidden within the circular seam. While sewing, gently stretch the facing between the pins and align the edges of the facing and neckline precisely. Press, then press the seam allowance toward the long sleeve.
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Topstitching the Neckline
- Fold the neckline seam allowances onto the long sleeve shirt and topstitch along the entire neckline from the right side. Place the stitch 0.1–0.2 mm from the seam. Where the stitching meets to form a circle, secure it neatly with a backstitch. Press to finish.
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Pressing Sleeve Hems
- Press the sleeve hems (2.5 cm) up toward the wrong side of the fabric.
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Serging Sleeve Slit Sections
- Along the side seam, measure 2 cm down from the top edge of the sleeve on the front notch side and mark. Serge these sections from the cut, then press flat.
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Securing Serger Thread
- Tuck the end of the serger thread between the layers of knit fabric using a needle or crochet hook.
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Securing Sleeve Serger Thread
- Tuck the serger thread tail between the layers of knit fabric using a needle or crochet hook.
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Topstitching the Slit
- Topstitch around the slit to form a neat rectangle, keeping the stitch line 1–2 mm from the edge.
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Attaching Sleeves to Armholes
- Place the sleeve pieces right sides together with the long sleeve, aligning along the armhole edge. Make sure not to mix up the right and left sleeves—use the notches as a guide. Pin from the long sleeve side. Sew the sleeves to the long sleeve using an overlocker. Stitch from the long sleeve side. Press the seam, then press the seam allowance toward the sleeve.
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Sewing the Sleeves
- Fold the sleeves with the right sides facing each other and pin them in place. Using a serger, sew the sleeves together, leaving the slit area marked with notches open. Press the seam, then press the seam allowance toward the back of the sleeve. At the slit, press the seam allowances open in opposite directions.
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Sewing the Waistband Ring
- Fold the waistband piece in half with the right sides facing each other, aligning the short edges. Sew the short edges together on your machine, using a 1.0 cm seam allowance. Be sure to leave an opening about 3.5 cm wide for inserting the elastic. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to secure it.
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Pressing the Waistband
- Press the waistband piece in half lengthwise, wrong sides together.
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Securing Waistband Serger Thread
- Tuck the end of the serger thread between the knit layers using a crochet hook or a tapestry needle.
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Attaching the Waistband
- Fold the waistband in half with the wrong sides together. Pin the waistband to the top’s waist edge, matching the notches and aligning the waistband seam with the side seam. Make sure the opening for threading the elastic will end up on the inside of the top when finished. Attach the waistband using an overlock machine, stitching along the waistband side. Press the seam, then press the seam allowances up toward the top.
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Closing the Elastic Opening
- Close the opening for the elastic by hand using invisible stitches.
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Joining the Elastic Ends
- Join the ends of the elastic to form a loop, overlapping them by 2 cm, and stitch securely with several backstitches.
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Inserting the Elastic
- Pre-shrink the elastic. Thread the elastic through the waistband. The required length is specified on the paper pattern.
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Sleeve Hem Options
- Press the sleeve hem again to a seam allowance of 2.5 cm. Secure the hem allowance at the bottom using a twin needle or a coverstitch machine. You can also secure the seam allowances by sewing a zigzag stitch with a frequency of 2–3 and a width of 3.5.
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Sewing the Hem with a Twin Needle
- Sew the hem using a twin needle on your sewing machine. Stitch from the right side of the sleeve. Where the stitching meets to form a circle, add a backstitch to secure it (if using a coverstitch machine, skip the backstitch). During sewing, your hand-basted stitches should be your guide—the basting line needs to run exactly between the two needles. Press with an iron.
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Basting the Sleeve Hem
- Steps for hemming with a twin needle or a coverstitch machine: Pin the seam allowances in place, then sew a line with contrasting thread, keeping 1 mm from the edge of the allowance.
