Women's Sweatshirts/Warm Zip-Up Sweatshirt Sewing Pattern | Beginner Friendly | Sweatshirt with seams | sweatshirt with yoke | XS-XXL | A4, US Letter, Plotter
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Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Attaching the yoke
- 1. Finish the yoke piece and front piece edges with an overlocker from the right side. 2. Place the yoke on the front piece, right sides together, and stitch on a regular sewing machine, 5–7 mm from the edge.
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Attaching the sleeve parts
- 1. Finish the lower and upper sleeve pieces with an overlocker as shown in the scheme. 2. Place the upper sleeve piece on the lower sleeve piece, right sides together, and stitch on a regular sewing machine, 5–7 mm from the edge.
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Pocket Construction - Step 1-3
- 1. Place the pocket lining piece right side down onto the right side of the front center panel, matching the notches. Pin in place. Stitch the pocket opening using a 7 mm seam, removing pins as you sew. 2. Clip the corners of the pocket opening seam allowance. 3. Topstitch the seam allowance to the pocket lining from the right side, sewing 1 mm from the seam.
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Pocket Construction - Step 4
- Straighten the corners. Baste the pocket opening, making sure to align the edge from the center front piece. Press the pocket opening. Remove any basting threads.
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Pocket Construction - Step 5
- Topstitch the pocket opening, keeping the stitch line 5 mm away from the facing seam. At the beginning and end, without breaking the stitch, sew bar tacks perpendicular to the pocket opening.
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Pocket Construction - Step 6
- Place the inner and outer pocket linings right sides together, matching up the edges and notches, and secure with pins. Serge the rounded edges of the linings from the side of the outer lining, removing pins as you go.
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Pocket Construction - Step 7
- 7. Line up the vertical edges of the pocket lining with the curved edge, and match the horizontal edges of the pocket with the bottom edge of the front center panel. Pin everything in place. Sew a securing stitch, keeping 7 mm from the curved edge and 3 mm from the bottom edge, removing pins as you go.
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Pocket Construction - Step 8
- Place the center and side front pieces right sides together, matching notches and aligning the curved edges. Pin in place. Sew along the curved edges with an overlock, removing the pins as you go. Important! On the right side, the pocket opening should line up with the curved seam. The overlock stitch needs to match the pocket lining's joining stitch.
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Pocket Construction - Step 9-10
- 9. Press the seam allowances of the princess seam toward the side front and steam them flat. 10. Make neat bar tacks perpendicular to the pocket opening. Each bar tack should start exactly at the princess seam and align with the bar tacks on the pocket opening topstitching.
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Shoulder Seams Preparation
- 11. Finish the front shoulder seams with an overlock stitch on the right side. Press to set. 12. On the front piece, mark the placement line for the back shoulder seam on the right side, 1.7 cm from the front shoulder edge. 13. On the back piece, draw the intended stitching line 1 cm from the shoulder edge.
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Shoulder Seams Assembly
- 14. Place the back piece wrong side down onto the right side of the front, matching the shoulder edge of the back to the marked line on the front. Pin in place. 15. Sew along the marked line on the back using a straight stitch, removing the pins as you go. Press the seam.
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Sleeve Assembly
- Place the sleeve into the armhole with right sides facing. Align the sleeve cap and armhole edges, matching the side seams of the front and back with the sleeve edges. Line up the shoulder seam and notches on the armhole with the notches on the sleeve cap. Pin the pieces together. Stitch the sleeve into the armhole using an overlock machine from the sleeve side, removing pins as you sew. Press the seam allowance toward the body, then topstitch from the right side, 5 mm from the seam. Press the sleeve attachment seam.
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Finishing the Side Seams and Sleeve Seams
- 19. Turn the garment inside out. Align the notches and the sleeve attachment seam, matching the side edges of the front and back pieces, as well as the sleeve edges. Secure everything with pins. Sew the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous pass on the serger from the back side, removing the pins as you go. 20. Press the seam allowances of the side seams toward the front piece.
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Waistband Preparation
- 27. Serge the center front edges from the right side of the fabric. Press lightly. 28. On the right side, serge one long edge of the waistband from both ends up to the first notch—this will be the inside of the waistband. 29. Fold the waistband in half lengthwise with the wrong side facing in. Align the notches and pin in place. Match the edges and stitch a securing line on a straight stitch machine, 2–3 mm from the edge, removing pins as you sew and gently stretching the waistband. Do not stitch into the previously finished area—stop 1–1.5 cm before it. Press the waistband carefully. Do not press hard and avoid stretching the band.
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Attaching the Waistband
- 30. Place the waistband and the garment right sides together. Align the edge of the waistband with the lower edge of the garment, matching up the seams and notches. Pin in place, folding back the previously finished section of the inner waistband. Important! Make sure the notch on the waistband lines up with the second notch from the center seam of the front middle section. 31. Using a serger, attach the waistband up to the first notch, folding back the previously finished inner waistband section and removing pins as you go. 32. Stitch the remaining section of the waistband with the serger, removing pins as you go. Important! Start and finish your seam so that it overlaps the previously sewn area by 1-1.5 cm.
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Pressing the Waistband
- 33. Press the seam allowances of the waistband attachment towards the garment.
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Collar Preparation
- 27. Use a serger to finish the center front edges from the right side. Press to set the seams.
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Zipper Installation - Step 38-39
- 38. Place one side of the zipper along the center front edge, right sides together. Fold the top end of the zipper and position it 2 mm below the pressed edge of the stand-up collar. Align the bottom end of the zipper with the pressed edge of the waistband. Pin the zipper in place, folding back the inner part of the waistband and collar as you go. 39. Stitch the zipper in using a straight stitch, keeping 2–3 mm away from the zipper teeth and using a zipper foot. Remove the basting threads when finished.
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Zipper Installation - Step 40-42
- 40. Wrap the bottom end of the zipper with the inside of the waistband and secure it with pins. 41. Stitch the zipper to the inside of the waistband, sewing along the zipper seam with a straight-stitch machine. Remove the pins when finished. 42. In the same way, finish the top end of the zipper by wrapping it with the inside of the collar.
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Zipper Installation - Step 43-44
- 43. Turn the waistband and collar right side out, making sure the corners are neat and sharp. On the second half of the zipper, mark guidelines to align the waistband and collar symmetrically. 44. Unzip the zipper. Attach the second side of the zipper in the same way, matching the marked lines on the zipper with the stitching lines of the waistband and collar.
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Zipper Installation - Step 45-47
- 45. Align the finished edge of the inner waistband with the waistband seam and pin it in place. Secure the seam allowances together by stitching close to the seam on a straight stitch machine. Stop stitching about 3–4 cm before the zipper seam. Remove the pins. 46. In the same way, secure the collar seam allowances. 47. Turn the seam allowances for the zipper to the inside, then topstitch on the front side, keeping a 5 mm distance from the collar seam, zipper seams, and waistband with a continuous stitch. Press to finish.
