Women's Pants/Wide Leg Pants | Autumn Trousers PDF Sewing Pattern | XS–M | A4, US Letter, Plotter
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Reinforcing the Waistband
- Fully reinforce the following pieces: Center waistband piece - 1 item. It's best to reinforce using a rough cut—cut the pieces with an added 1-2 cm allowance, iron on interfacing, then trim precisely along the pattern lines.
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Preparing Pocket Bags
- Fold the pocket bags in half along the notches, with the right sides facing each other, and press.
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Reinforcing Pocket Openings
- Apply interfacing along the pocket opening on both the front and back pieces of the pants, working from the wrong side, following the grain. Attach a 1 cm wide strip, keeping it 2-3 mm away from the raw edge. The strip should extend past the pocket's guide marks, both upward and extend downward about 1-2 cm.
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Attaching Pocket Lining
- Place the pocket pieces face down on the front parts of the pants. Pin them in place, aligning with the pocket entry guide marks. Make sure not to mix up the top and bottom of the pocket. Stitch the pocket lining in a rectangle, sewing exactly from one guide mark to the other, using a 1 cm seam allowance. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam.
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Pressing Pocket Opening
- Fold the pocket lining to the wrong side of the front piece and press, creating a slight roll. Smooth out the corners to form a neat frame.
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Topstitching Pocket Seam
- Press the seam allowances onto the pocket lining, then topstitch on the machine 2-3 mm from the seam. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end of the row. Press to finish.
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Clipping Corners
- Make diagonal snips at the corners, stopping 1-2 mm before the stitch line.
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Topstitching the Pocket Frame
- Topstitch the frame on the front side of the pant pieces. Sew the line 0.7 cm from the edges.
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Basting Pocket to Front Piece
- Align the side and waist edges of the pocket lining and the front pieces of the pants. Pin or baste in place. Secure with a temporary machine stitch, sewing 0.7 cm from the edge.
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Finishing Pocket Lining Bottom
- Turn the pocket inside out so the right side is facing in, then gently shape the corner. Press to set the shape. Sew a second line 0.6 cm above the lower edge. Press with an iron.
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Stitching Pocket Lining Bottom
- Fold the pocket lining with the wrong sides together, matching up the bottom edges. Pin or baste to hold in place. Sew by machine. Stitch a seam 0.4 cm from the edge. Trim the seam allowance to 0.4 cm if it's wider than that.
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Pressing Side Seams
- Press the seam allowances near the pocket toward the back of the pants. Below the pockets, press the allowances toward the front.
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Pressing Hem Crease
- Press the seam allowance for the pant hem. Fold a 4 cm allowance to the inside and press to set the crease. If you're unsure about the final length of the pants, you can skip this step for now.
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Tacking Pocket Corners
- Place the front and back pieces of the pants right sides together, lining them up at the side seams near the pocket. Pin them from the front side, making sure the pocket's guide points match. At the corner of the pocket opening, sew a bar tack with your machine. The stitch should run precisely along the corner without catching the pocket entry. Each bar tack should be 3-4 stitches long.
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Assembling Side Seams
- Pin the front and back pieces of the pants together along the side seams, right sides facing, matching the guide marks. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance. Secure the stitches at the beginning and end. The machine needle should stitch precisely over the tack points at the pocket corners. Finish the seam allowances with a serger on the front side of the pants.
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Assembling Seat Seam
- Turn one pant leg right side out, and leave the other inside out. Place the pant leg that's right side out inside the other, matching them up with right sides facing along the seat seam. Pin or baste together, using the notches and seams as your guide. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance, securing the ends. Press the seam flat.
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Finishing Seat Seam
- Finish the seam allowances with an overlock stitch. Sew the seam from either side. Press, then fold the seam allowances on the straight sections so that the right side of the overlock stitch faces you.
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Assembling Inseams
- Place the front and back pant pieces right sides together, matching along the inseam, and pin them in place. Sew with a 1 cm seam allowance, securing the ends. Press the seam flat. Finish the seam allowances with a serger. Topstitch from the back pant piece side. Press, then fold the seam allowances toward the front pieces and press again.
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Pressing Center Waistband Edge
- Press the 1 cm seam allowance to the wrong side along one long edge of the waistband's center piece.
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Pressing Center Waistband Fold
- Fold the center belt piece lengthwise with the wrong sides together, aligning with the guide marks, and press. The edge of the center belt piece with the pressed seam allowance will be on the inside.
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Assembling Waistband Pieces
- Place the waistband and its center piece right sides together, matching up the short edges. Pin or baste the pieces together, using the guide marks for alignment. Sew along the edge with a 1 cm seam allowance, securing the stitches. Press the seam, then open the seam allowances and press them in opposite directions.
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Pressing Waistband Fold
- Fold the waistband piece lengthwise with the wrong sides together, align with the guide marks, and press. The side of the waistband with the pressed seam allowance will be on the inside.
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Pressing Waistband Edge
- Press a 1 cm seam allowance to the wrong side along one long edge of the waistband piece.
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Inserting Elastic
- Steam and shrink the elastic band, which should be 4 cm wide. Cut the elastic to the required length. Thread the elastic through the waistband, leaving a short tail (0.5 cm) sticking out past the seam on the center waistband piece. Pin the elastic in place right along the seam. The long section of elastic should rest inside the waistband.
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Pinning Waistband to Pants
- Touch up the waistband pressing as needed. Place the waistband right sides together with the pants, aligning them along the waistline. Attach the waistband with the unpressed side facing down. Pin or baste in place, using the guide marks for alignment.
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Stitching Waistband to Pants
- Sew by machine with a 1 cm seam allowance. At the point where the seam forms a circle, add backstitches for reinforcement. Press the seam, then press the allowances up towards the waistband.
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Securing Waistband Inside
- Fold the waistband to the inside along the pressed edge, making sure it slightly overlaps the waistband seam by about 1 mm. Secure in place with pins or by basting. Sew the waistband on the machine, stitching from the right side of the pants and guiding the needle right into the groove of the waistband seam for a clean finish. Begin and end your stitching at the seam of the center waistband piece. Do not sew the center waistband piece itself. Backstitch at the start and end of your seam. Press to finish.
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Distributing Elastic
- Smooth out the elastic inside the waistband. Secure with pins.
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Finishing Center Waistband Piece
- Smooth out the center waistband piece. The inside edge should overlap the joining seam by about 1 mm. Pin or baste in place. Stitch the center waistband piece with the machine, sewing from the right side of the pants and guiding the needle into the seam groove. Begin and end your stitch at the seam of the center waistband piece. Backstitch at the start and finish of the seam. Press to set the stitches.
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Securing Second Elastic End
- Thread the elastic through to the second seam on the waistband’s center piece. Leave a short tail of elastic (about 0.5 cm) so it extends past the seam on the center waistband piece. Pin it right at the seam. Try on the garment to check the fit. Secure the elastic with the sewing machine. Stitch directly along the seam. Add a backstitch at both the beginning and end of the line. Press with an iron.
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Securing First Elastic End
- Secure the elastic on the sewing machine. Stitch directly along the seam. Remember to backstitch at the beginning and end for reinforcement. Press with an iron.
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First Waistband Topstitching
- Secure the elastic with the sewing machine. Stitch the top edge of the waistband from the right side, keeping 1.5 cm from the top. As you sew, stretch the waistband gently. Start and finish your stitching at the seam of the center panel. Add a backstitch at both the beginning and end.
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Stitching the Hem
- Pin or baste the seam allowance in place. Stitch the allowance on the outside of the pants using the machine. Keep the stitch line 3.8 cm from the bottom edge of the pants. At the point where the stitching forms a circle, add a backstitch for reinforcement. Press the fabric to smooth it out. You can also hem the pants using a hand-sewn invisible stitch.
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Serging Hem Edges
- Finish the raw edges at the hem of the pants using a serger. Stitch along the right side of the fabric pieces. Press to set the seam. Refresh the crease for the 4 cm hem allowance. Tuck the serger thread tail inside the hem for a clean finish.
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Second Waistband Topstitching
- Sew a second line of stitching on the front side of the waistband, keeping it 1.5 cm away from the first stitch. While sewing, gently stretch the waistband. Begin and end your stitch at the seam of the center piece. Secure the stitch at both the start and finish. The waistband should be divided into three equal sections by the stitching.
