Women's Blazers/Women’s Collarless Blazer Sewing Pattern | Button-Front Jacket or Cardigan | Classic Tailored PDF Pattern | L–XXL | A4, Letter, Plotter
1 / 4Interactive sewing map
Step-by-step technological process of sewing the garment.
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Sewing Darts
- Sew the bust darts on the front and the shoulder darts on the back.
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Cutting and Marking
- Transfer the pattern pieces onto the fabric, making sure to follow the grainline and nap direction (if applicable). Cut out the required pieces from both the main fabric and the lining according to the pattern. Mark all notches and reference points by making 3mm snips through all fabric layers, keeping everything symmetrical. Add notches at the center front and back as well. Transfer all darts and markings.
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Interfacing
- Fuse the pieces together, following the markings on the pattern. Add seam allowances for hemming the bottom edges of the front panels, back, and sleeves. Also add the top seam allowance for the pockets, the facing, and the back neckline facing.
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Trimming and Pressing Darts
- Cut the dart straight down the center, stopping 2 cm before the tip. Trim the seam allowances to 0.5 cm. Press the seams open.
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Assembling Pockets - Step 1
- Place the pocket and the pocket lining right sides together, aligning the top edge. Stitch along the edge. Press the seam allowance toward the lining.
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Assembling Pockets - Step 2
- Fold the pocket along the crease with the right sides facing each other, then align the top edges and the lining. Sew around, leaving a 3–5 cm opening at the bottom edge for turning.
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Attaching Pockets
- Place the pocket on the front piece, following the markings. Baste it with diagonal stitches or secure with pins. Stitch the pocket close to the edge and add horizontal bar tacks at the pocket opening.
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Turning and Finishing Pockets
- Trim the corners of the seam allowances. Where the edges are curved, trim the allowance down to 0.5 cm. Turn the pocket right side out through the opening and press it. Hand stitch the open area closed. Prepare the second pocket in the same way.
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Finishing Flaps
- Turn the flap right side out, gently push out the corners, and press it flat. Baste along the seam edges, then topstitch 0.5 cm from the edge for a neat finish.
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Assembling Flaps - Step 2
- Trim seam allowances down to 0.5 cm. Carefully snip the corners close to the stitching.
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Assembling Flaps - Step 1
- Place the flap’s outer and lining pieces together. Stitch along three edges.
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Attaching Flaps - Step 2
- Fold the flap downward and press it flat. Topstitch the flap, keeping a 0.5 cm distance from the seam.
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Attaching Flaps - Step 1
- Place the flaps face-to-face on the front piece, aligning along the seam line. IMPORTANT! The open edge of the flap should be at the bottom. Stitch the flap in place, then trim the allowance down to 3–4 mm.
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Side Seams
- Align the front and back pieces along the side edges. Stitch them together, then press the seam allowances open.
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Hem Pressing
- Press the hem allowance to set the edge in place.
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Sleeve Construction
- Sew the sleeve’s inner seam, then press the seam allowance open. Press the hem allowance of the sleeve bottom upwards.
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Setting Sleeves
- Place the sleeve into the armhole with right sides facing, matching all notches and seams. Distribute the gathers evenly along the sleeve cap so it fits smoothly into the armhole without any puckering. Sew the sleeve into the armhole. Repeat the process for the second sleeve.
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Lining Side Seams
- Align the side edges of the front and back lining pieces, then sew the side seams. Finish the seam allowances together and press them towards the front.
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Lining Darts
- Sew the darts on the back lining and press them toward the center.
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Lining Shoulder Seams
- Align the shoulder edges of the front and back lining, right sides together. Stitch the seams, finish the edges together, and press them towards the back.
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Assembling Facings
- Align the shoulder seams of the facings and back neckline facing. Stitch together and press the seam allowances open.
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Finishing Lining Edges
- Finish the lower edge of the front and back lining. Finish the edges of the front and back neckline lining panels.
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Lining Pleat
- Create a pleat (tuck) in the front lining, following the markings on your pattern.
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Sleeve Lining Construction
- Sew the inner seam of the sleeve lining, finish the seam allowances together, and press them toward the back. Finish the bottom edge of the sleeve lining as well.
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Joining Facing and Lining
- Align the edges of the finished facing and lining, right sides together. IMPORTANT! The lining will be longer along the seam, since a slight excess is built in. Ease the lining onto the facing, between the dart and the bottom edge. Sew the seam and press the allowance toward the lining.
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Attaching Sleeve Lining
- Sew the sleeve onto the lining, then finish the seam allowances together.
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Joining Lining and Outer Hem
- Place the outer fabric and lining right sides together, matching the raw edges along the bottom. Sew around the hem, leaving an opening at the back (about 15 cm) so you can turn the garment right side out. Press the seam allowances toward the lining.
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Pressing Facing Seams
- Press open the seam allowances along the facing.
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Collarless Option Assembly
- Without turning the garment inside out, align the edge of the front and the facing along the front opening and neckline. Sew along the edge.
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Turning and Sleeve Hem Lining
- Turn the garment right side out. Place the sleeve lining inside the sleeve. Using the opening left at the bottom of the garment, reach inside to grab the lower edges of the sleeve from the inside and pull them out. Align the lower edges of the sleeve and lining with the right sides facing each other. Sew the seam. Repeat the process for the second sleeve.
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Trimming and Clipping Neckline
- Trim the corner allowances. Clip the seam allowance around the neckline, stopping 2mm before the stitching line.
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Securing Hems
- Secure the seam allowances for the hem of the sleeve and the bottom edge of the garment with hand stitches.
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Joining Sleeve Cap Allowances
- Join the seam allowances along the sleeve cap for both the lining and the outer fabric. You can braid a thread cord or stitch a strip of fabric to allow for a bit of ease.
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Securing Facing
- By hand, secure the facing along the shoulder seams.
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Final Pressing
- Press the jacket to shape it. The lining should have a slight overhang for a neat finish.
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Closing the Turning Opening
- Turn the jacket right side out through the opening you left. Sew the opening closed by hand.
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Buttons and Buttonholes
- Sew on the buttons and create the buttonholes, following the markings on the pattern. If your fabric is too thick for buttonholes, you can attach buttons to the right front panel just for decoration, and add snaps for actual fastening, making sure to place them according to the pattern markings.
