Bias binding finish
A clean way to finish raw edges (neckline, armhole, hem) using a strip of fabric cut on the 45-degree bias.
Where it is used
Preparing Neckline Binding
p. 3- Fold the binding piece in half lengthwise and press flat, being careful not to stretch the fabric.
Positioning Neckline Binding
p. 3- Lay the bias tape on the right side of the dress top, matching the neckline and front edge. Do not stretch at the back neckline, but gently stretch along the straight front edge. Pin or baste in place.
Finishing Neckline Binding
p. 4- Trim seam allowances to 0.5 cm and make small notches along the back neckline curve. Press allowances toward the binding, fold the binding to the inside, baste by hand, and stitch 0.7 cm from the front opening edge.
Pressing the Neckline
p. 4- Stitch the bias tape in place from the right side of the dress, keeping the seam 0.7 cm from the edge. Remove basting stitches and press.
Prepare Bias Strips - Step 2
p. 4- Next, fold the raw edges in toward the pressed center line, then fold the bias strip in half again so the finished width is 1 cm. Pin in place. Mark the reference points on the right side of the bias strips using tailor’s chalk or soap.
Prepare Bias Strips - Step 1
p. 4- Press the bias strips for the armhole and neckline in half, wrong sides together, along the long edges.
Pin Armhole Binding
p. 5- The ends of the bias tape (about 2 cm each) should extend past the edges of the dress, just like you see in the photo. You can also pin the bias tape while gently stretching it to keep things even.
Position Armhole Binding
p. 5- Lay the dress facing you. Get the bindings ready for finishing the armhole. At both the start and end of the binding, leave a 2 cm allowance—this helps you start and finish the stitch, keeping the binding evenly stretched along the entire edge. Find the armhole marker on the binding. Place the side with the armhole marker against the front part of the dress. Pin the binding to the dress, lining up the markers at the armhole and shoulder seam.
Baste Armhole Binding
p. 5- If you’re comfortable with sewing, you can skip the basting and attach the bias tape directly, stretching it as you sew. If you’re just getting started with sewing, it’s best to baste the bias tape first, stretching it evenly between the guide points.
Stitch Armhole Binding
p. 5- Attach a twin needle to your sewing machine. It's a good idea to test your stitch on a scrap piece first. On some machines, loosening the upper thread tension can help improve stitch quality. Sew the binding in place using the twin needle. The left line of stitching should be about 1–2 mm from the edge of the binding (the edge lying against the dress). Begin stitching at the tail end of the binding. Secure your stitches at both the beginning and end. Remove the basting and press the seam.
Finish Neckline Binding
p. 6- Using the same method, pin the bias tape to the neckline, matching the notches. Baste with slight tension, then sew the bias tape in place using a twin needle on your machine. Remove the basting stitches. Press with an iron. You can trim the ends of the binding.
Finish Left Armhole
p. 7- Finish the left armhole with bias tape, just like you did for the right armhole. Baste, then stitch it in place using a twin needle for knits. Press with an iron.
