Cuff construction
The process of finishing the leg hems by inserting elastic bands to create gathered ankle cuffs.
Where it is used
Cuff Preparation - Pressing
p. 7- Press the cuffs in half lengthwise, folding with the wrong side inside.
Cuff Construction - Step 16
p. 10- Measure the elastic band around your ankle—it should fit comfortably, not too tight. Sew the ends of the band together to form a loop, then insert it into the hem of the pant leg.
Cuff Construction - Step 17
p. 10- Turn the pants inside out. Slide the elastic band onto the pant leg, aligning it neatly with the fold allowance. Stitch along the edge of the elastic, staying 1-2 mm from the side. Stretch the band to match the width of the hem as you sew.
Cuff Construction - Step 15
p. 10- Finish the pant hem with an overlock. On the right side, mark the hemline—the fold line—and press along it.
Cuff Construction - Step 18
p. 10- Fold the seam allowance over and sew a line on the sewing machine, 3.5 cm from the fold. Stretch the elastic to fit the hem of the pants as you stitch.
Cuffs and waistbands
p. 10- Fold each cuff in half with the right sides facing in, then sew the short edge together.
Cuffs and waistbands
p. 10- Sew the short edges with a straight stitch, keeping a 7mm seam allowance from the edge. Then, press the seams open.
Cuffs and waistbands
p. 11- Begin by folding the cuff in half lengthwise, with the wrong side facing in. Pin it together, matching the notches and seam line. Next, sew a temporary straight stitch about 2–3 mm from the edge, making sure the edges stay even. As you sew, gently stretch the cuff if needed and remove the pins as you go. When finished, press the cuff carefully—avoid stretching or misshaping it.
Cuffs and waistbands
p. 11- Sew two parallel lines on the machine, first setting your stitch length to 5mm. Leave long thread tails at the ends—you'll use these to gather the fabric.
Cuffs and waistbands
p. 11- Pull the threads to gather the fabric, spreading the gathers evenly around. Once gathered, the lower edge should measure 1.5 times the length of the cuff.
Cuffs and waistbands
p. 13- The cuff is ready. Press the seam allowance toward the main piece.
Cuffs and waistbands
p. 14- Fold the waistband in half and stitch the short edges using a straight stitch, staying 7mm away from the fabric edge. When finished, press the seams open.
Related terms
requiresElastic band (3 cm)
requiresSewing machine