Interfacing
Applying adhesive backing to fabric pieces to add structure and stability.
Where it is used
Pressing Collar Seam
p. 4- Press the seam, then press the seam allowances toward the collar.
Preparing and Pressing the Plackets
p. 14- Reinforce the plackets with interfacing. With right sides facing, align the collar edges with the bands and stitch them together. Press the seam allowances open, fold the placket in half with wrong sides together, and press from the right side.
Interfacing Facings
p. 1- Completely interface the following pieces: Front facing – 1 piece, Back facing – 1 piece. It’s best to roughly cut the pieces for interfacing—lay out the listed pieces on your fabric, mark the area with tailor’s chalk, apply the interfacing to the marked section, and then cut out each piece using your paper pattern.
Pin Plackets to Front
p. 4- Place the placket pieces onto the front piece, right sides together, and pin. At the bottom point of the slash (opening), precisely align the markings made on the front piece and the plackets – the intersection of the marking lines on the front and the plackets must be exactly matched. Pin in place.
Serge Placket Edges
p. 4- Serge/Overlock one of the long raw edges on the placket pieces. Note that, when finished, the serged edges on the plackets must be a mirror image of each other. Perform the serging stitch on the right side of the piece. Press lightly (or finger-press).
Prepare Plackets
p. 4- Press the placket pieces in half, wrong sides together, aligning with the center control points of the piece.
Align Collar with Placket Center
p. 6- Place the edge of the collar towards the pressed line marking the center of the placket.
Enclose Collar in Placket
p. 7- Cover the collar from above with the free part of the placket, pin it, aligning all raw edges. (Direct the placket attachment allowances onto the placket).
Baste Plackets
p. 10- Baste the inner sides of the plackets. Make the hand stitching from the right side, landing the needle in the ditch of the placket attachment seam, and from the wrong side, catching the free edge of the placket at a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge (along the edge of the overlock stitching).
Pin Bottom of Plackets
p. 10- Turn the front piece upwards. Align the bottom edges of the plackets, and pin. Direct the placket attachment seam allowances onto the plackets.
Stitch Plackets in the Ditch
p. 11- Stitch the plackets. Perform the stitching from the right side in the ditch of the placket attachment seam; the stitching runs along the front piece. Start the stitching at the collar setting seam.
Topstitch Placket Allowances
p. 12- Mark the lines for topstitching the placket allowances. Measure 1.5 cm down from the placket attachment seam and mark a line. Extend the vertical placket attachment seam up to the marking line. Topstitch along the markings, catching the placket allowances from the wrong side.
Related terms
requiresIron
requiresFusible interfacing
requiresIron
requiresIron
requiresFusible interfacing
requiresInterlining
requiresIron
requiresAdhesive interfacing
requiresFusible interfacing
requiresFusible interfacing