Invisible zipper insertion
The technique of sewing an invisible zipper into the center back seam using a specialized foot.
Where it is used
Basting Invisible Zipper
p. 9- Pre-shrink the zipper. Unzip and place one zipper tape right side down on the right side of the dress left side seam. Align the tape edge with the seam edge and baste.
Marking Zipper Boundaries
p. 5- On the front side of the dress, mark where the zipper will start and end. The starting point should be at the collar's fold reference. To find the end point, transfer the boundary line from the inside of the garment.
Positioning Left Zipper Tape
p. 5- Place the left side of the zipper face down against the left front side of the dress along the cut. The zipper teeth should point toward the sleeve. Position the top zipper stop just 0.1–0.2 cm before the zipper end mark. Pin or baste in place, making sure the zipper tape edge lines up with the cut edge on the front piece.
Drawing Zipper Box and Extending Slit
p. 5- Draw the zipper attachment box—vertical lines should be placed 0.7 cm from the slit. Continue cutting along the center front, stopping 2 cm before you reach the bottom marking line.
Positioning Right Zipper Tape
p. 6- Place the other side of the zipper along the right front, matching the alignment marks. Pin or baste in place, making sure the edge of the zipper tape lines up with the opening on the front piece.
Sewing Right Zipper Tape
p. 6- Sew the zipper using a single-sided presser foot, keeping a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge of the tape. Press to finish. Carefully snip diagonally right up to the end point of the stitch—make sure not to cut into the zipper tape.
Wrapping Zipper with Collar
p. 8- Wrap the zipper with the collar piece, making sure the width of the zipper is even on the inside. Pin the short ends of the tape in place with pins. Sew with a sewing machine using a zipper foot at a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Press.
7 & 8. Center Back Preparation
p. 6- Pin the edges of the center back seam together, aligning the edges and notches, with right sides facing in. Mark the starting point for inserting the invisible zipper.
15. Lining Preparation - 15.5
p. 9- Mark the starting point for inserting the invisible zipper according to the template guidelines.
20. Pinning & Sewing First Zipper Side
p. 12- Unzip and pin one side of the zipper tape to the right edge of the closure, lining up the edges and the tape’s border. Place the folded top edge of the zipper at the waistband notch. Sew one side of the zipper tape using a special presser foot for invisible zippers. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
Sewing Zipper to Back
p. 7- Attach the invisible zipper presser foot to your machine. Position the zipper under the foot so the needle is to the left of the zipper teeth, and the teeth rest in the groove of the presser foot. Stitch the zipper in place, starting at the waist edge and stopping 0.2–0.3 cm before reaching the start of the side seam.
Positioning Invisible Zipper
p. 14- Pre-shrink the invisible zipper tape. Lay the jumpsuit with the wrong side facing you. Unzip the zipper; place one edge of the zipper tape right side down (face side) onto the right side of the jumpsuit. The top stop of the zipper should be placed 1.2 cm below the neckline raw edge. Pin the zipper in place, aligning the edge of the zipper tape with the raw edge of the garment, and baste.
Related terms
requiresInvisible zipper foot
requiresInvisible zipper (nylon)
requiresInvisible zipper
requiresInvisible zipper foot
requiresInvisible zipper
requiresInvisible zipper foot
requiresInvisible zipper
requiresSewing machine
stabilized byFusible tape
stabilized byFusible stay tape (straight)