Side Seam Overcasting
Finishing side seam allowances using an overlock machine.
Where it is used
Finishing Bodice Side Seams
p. 5- Finish the side seams of the front and back bodice pieces with a serger, stitching from the right side, then press flat.
Finishing Skirt Side Seams
p. 5- Finish the side seams of the front and back skirt pieces with an overlock, stitching from the right side, and press.
Sewing Side Seams
p. 2- Sew the seam with the overlock machine, stitching from the back side. Press the seam, then iron the seam allowance toward the front.
4. Stitching side seams
p. 6- Stitch and serge the side seams at the same time on a 4-thread overlock. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
5. Pressing side seams
p. 6- Press the side seam allowances toward the back.
6.2. Stitching sleeve edges
p. 7- Stitch and serge the upper and lower sleeve edges at the same time on a 4-thread overlock. Seam allowance: 0.7 cm.
Sew Right Shoulder Seam
p. 4- Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Pin along the RIGHT shoulder seam (imagine you're wearing the dress). Leave the left shoulder open for now. Sew along the seam allowance at 0.7 cm using an overlock. Stitch along the back piece side. Press the seam, then press the seam allowances toward the front.
Tack Side Seam Allowances
p. 7- Swap out the twin needle on the machine for a knit needle. Press the seam allowances at the side seams toward the front, and from the dress’s front side, add tack stitches about 0.5 cm away from the side seam. Each tack should be 3–4 stitches long. You can also secure the allowances by hand from the inside.
Sew Side Seams
p. 7- Fold the dress with the right side facing in. Pin along the side edges, matching up the notches. Sew with an overlock machine, using a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Stitch from the back side. Press with an iron, then fold the seam allowances toward the front. Hide the ends of the overlock stitch between the layers of knit fabric using a knit needle or crochet hook.
7. Sew side seams
p. 5- Back 003 and Front 001 sew along the side seam. Overcast the seam, then press.
Stitch Side Seams
p. 5- Place the front and back pieces right sides together, aligning the side edges. Pin from the front piece side. Sew with an overlock machine, stitching from the front piece side.
Sewing the Side Seams
p. 2- Place the front and back pieces of the shorts right sides together, matching up the side seams. Pin the pieces together. Insert the pins from the back side. Place the pins parallel to the edge, about 2-3 cm away, so they won't get caught under the presser foot or the serger blade. Serge the seam with a 4-thread overlock, using a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Stitch from the back piece side. Press the seam, then press the allowances toward the front piece.
Related terms
requires4-Thread Overlock