Fly front zipper installation
A classic method of constructing a zippered crotch opening with a protective fly shield and facing.
Where it is used
1.3. Fly interfacing
p. 5- Fuse the fly interfacing to the fly allowance on the right front pant piece from the wrong side.
1.4. Fly extension interfacing
p. 6- Fuse a 1.0 cm-wide strip of interfacing to the fly extension allowance on the wrong side of the left front pant piece.
15.1. Overlocking fly closure
p. 13- Serge the fly closure edge on the right front pant piece, stitching along the center seam 3.0–4.0 cm below where the fly begins.
15.5. Overlocking crotch and fly
p. 15- Overlock the crotch seam allowance and the fly allowance on the left front piece, folding back the finished zipper-fly allowance of the right front piece.
15.9. Sewing fly facing
p. 16- Stitch the facing along the lower edge. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
15.10. Turning fly facing
p. 16- Turn the fly facing right side out and press, aligning the vertical edges.
15.8. Pinning fly facing
p. 16- Pin the facing along the lower edge, matching the edges with right sides together.
15.12. Pressing fly facing
p. 17- Press the fly facing.
15.14. Measuring zipper
p. 17- Place the zipper tape against the fly and measure the required length: the top zipper stop should sit 1.2 cm below the top edge of the pants.
15.14. Positioning bottom stop
p. 18- Place the bottom stop 0.2 cm above the start of the center-seam stitching line (the reference mark for the start of the fly).
15.18. Sewing fly facing
p. 19- Stitch the fly facing to the left zipper opening using a single-toe presser foot. Seam allowance 1.0 cm.
15.17. Pinning fly shield
p. 19- Pin the fly shield to the left side of the zipper opening, matching the edges of the serged seam allowances and laying it on the right side of the pants.
Related terms
requiresZipper
requiresSingle-toe presser foot
depends onPreshrinking zipper
requiresZipper foot
requiresPliers