Zipper
A front closure fastener that needs to be adjusted and sewn in.
Where it is used
Marking and Preparing the Zipper Position
p. 2- Mark the position for attaching the zipper on the inside center front. If your zipper is shorter, adjust the marking to match your zipper's length by subtracting 8 cm (the collar stand's length) from the length of your zipper up to the bottom stop.
Marking Zipper Boundaries
p. 5- On the front side of the dress, mark where the zipper will start and end. The starting point should be at the collar's fold reference. To find the end point, transfer the boundary line from the inside of the garment.
Pressing Zipper Closure
p. 7- Zip up and press.
Mark Zipper Reference Points
p. 8- Mark the lower zipper point on the front piece—this is the reference for your hem allowance. On the collar, mark where the zipper starts—this will be your collar fold reference point.
Prepare and Cut Zipper
p. 8- Steam the zipper tape. The exact zipper length for your size and height is noted on the front piece. From the lower zipper stop, measure out the required length, then add an extra 2–3 cm upward and mark a reference point. Cut the zipper tape at the upper reference mark. Use pliers to remove any excess zipper teeth. Move the zipper stop precisely to match the final zipper marking.
Pin Zipper to Right Edge
p. 8- Unzip the zipper and set aside the side without the pull tab. Pin this side to the right edge, lining it up with your markings. Lay the zipper face down against the front of the sweater so that the edge of the zipper tape matches the edge of the front. Make sure the zipper sits exactly between the marked points. Fold the top end of the zipper tape into a neat corner.
Pin Left Zipper
p. 9- Unzip the zipper, line up the other side with the left edge of the sweater front, positioning the zipper between the sweater’s guide points and matching the collar seam to the zipper’s marking. Pin or baste in place.
Check Zipper Alignment
p. 9- Zip it up and check that the collar seam is even on both sides. Press to finish.
Measuring and trimming the zipper
p. 12- Measure the length of the zipper tape. Align the zipper tape with the marked closure line so that the top stopper sits 2 mm below the notch at the collar fold and the bottom stopper is 2 mm above the lower control mark on the closure. If necessary, trim the zipper tape to fit. Attach the bottom stopper.
Pinning the first zipper side
p. 14- Turn the zipper tape inside out and pin one side of it to the right edge of the closure, making sure to leave a 2 mm gap from the top edge at the collar fold. The edge of the zipper tape should extend 3 mm past the closure edge of the front panel.
Related terms
← requiresZipper insertion
← requiresFly front zipper installation
← applied toPreshrinking zipper
← requiresFly zipper construction
← requiresFly front zipper closure
requiresZipper foot
stabilized byStraight-grain fusible tape
← connected toTwill tape
requiresPliers
← applied toPreshrinking