Fly zipper construction
Technique of sewing a zippered fly closure with a fly shield and topstitching.
Where it is used
15.26. Topstitch the fly
p. 21- Topstitch the fly in two passes: stitch along the marked line from the top edge of the pants, stopping 1.0–1.5 cm before the center seam, with the fly shield folded to the wrong side. Finish with a backstitch. Raise the presser foot, smooth out the fly shield, and make a through-and-through bartack 1.0–1.5 cm long, reaching the center seam.
Stitching Second Zipper Side
p. 15- Turn the zipper teeth and place them under the foot so that the teeth are positioned to the right of the needle, in the groove of the foot. Stitch the zipper, starting the stitching from the upper stopper and finishing at the lower control point on the tape. Secure the stitching with backstitches at the beginning and end.
Closing Openings Near Zipper
p. 18- View of the lining from the front. Close the open openings near the zipper with a blind hand stitch.
7. Stitching the Zipper
p. 6- Fold the zipper to the right side and align the garment front edge with the zipper edge. Pin or baste in place. Stitch the zipper from the front piece side, precisely following the previously stitched line. The top of the zipper should not be caught in the collar facing seam to avoid bulk. Position the top zipper tooth 3 mm below the seam allowance basting line.
6. Zipper Placement and Notching
p. 6- Place the zipper with the right side against the previously stitched seam line, and attach the lower edge of the zipper, securing the beginning and end of the stitching. Make notches according to the diagram below. Do not cut 2 mm into the corners.
Pressing the Fly Facing
p. 4- On the left front panel, measure 1 cm along the marked center front line and press the integrated fly facing to the inside. On the right panel, press the fly facing along the center line.
Marking and Topstitching the Fly
p. 5- From the right side of the pants, align the left and right front pieces exactly along the center line (marked line). Pin them in place. Measure 3 cm from the center front and mark the topstitching line for the fly on the right front piece from the outside. Sew a topstitch along the edge while attaching the second half of the zipper. Add a bar tack at the center front for extra strength.
Step 10
p. 9- Place the zipper right side down onto the right side of the front piece, aligning the lower zipper insertion line with the end of the zipper. Stitch with backstitches. The stitch length should be 1 cm.
Step 13
p. 10- Stitch the zipper in place. Use backstitches at the beginning and end of the stitching lines.
