Overlocking
Finishing raw edges using an overlocker/serger to prevent fraying on armholes, necklines, and facings.
Where it is used
Finishing the top edge
p. 5- Finish the top edge of the top with the lining, while simultaneously stitching on the elastic all the way around using a 4-thread serger. Tuck the overlock thread tails into the cover-stitching line using a hook.
Serging the bottom edge
p. 6- Serge the lower edge of the top shell to the lining edge on a 4-thread overlock, gently stretching and smoothing the seam allowances all the way around. Use a hook to tuck the serger thread tails into the coverstitch line.
Sewing Side Seams
p. 2- Sew the seam with the overlock machine, stitching from the back side. Press the seam, then iron the seam allowance toward the front.
Overlocking Edges
p. 5- Serge/Overlock the raw edges of the armhole and neckline, and the edge of the front opening (placket/facing). You can insert silicone tape into the overlock stitching, which can be basted or stitched on the machine with a temporary stitch beforehand. Alternatively, you can use a special overlocker foot.
Attaching Sleeves
p. 9- Place the sleeves and dress right sides together, aligning the armhole edges. Pin them in place, matching the guide marks. Sew with an overlock, stitching from the dress side.
Finishing Raw Edges
p. 10- Try on the dress and decide on the length for both the dress and sleeves. Finish the lower edges of the dress and sleeves with a serger. Stitch from the right side. Press to set.
14. Sew shoulder seams
p. 6- Sew the shoulder seams using a 4-thread overlock machine (or sew with a regular machine first, then finish the edges with a standard 3-thread overlock).
18. Attach sleeves
p. 10- Attach and serge the sleeves to the armholes in one step using a 4-thread overlock machine (alternatively, sew with a standard machine, then finish the edges with a regular 3-thread overlock).
21. Sew sleeve-side seams
p. 10- Sew and serge the sleeve-side seams together using a 4-thread overlock machine (or sew with a regular sewing machine first, then finish the edges with a standard 3-thread overlock).
Stitch Shoulder Seams
p. 4- Place the front and back pieces together with right sides facing, matching the shoulder edges. Pin together from the back piece side. Stitch the pieces together using an overlock machine set for four-thread stitching. Sew with the back piece facing up.
10.
p. 6- Finish the armhole edges using a flat seam machine and a special edge binder.
13.
p. 7- Finish the shoulder seam allowance with an overlock stitch. Use a crochet hook to tuck the thread tails neatly into the overlock stitching.
