Topstitching zipper
Stitching along the zipper tape seam to secure the allowances and lay the zipper flat.
Where it is used
15. Lining Preparation - 15.5
p. 9- Mark the starting point for inserting the invisible zipper according to the template guidelines.
19.6. Pinning Waistband to Lining
p. 11- Turn the skirt right side out and smooth the lining. Pin the waistband edge to the top edge of the skirt lining, with right sides together, through the zipper opening in the center seam.
20. Pinning & Sewing First Zipper Side
p. 12- Unzip and pin one side of the zipper tape to the right edge of the closure, lining up the edges and the tape’s border. Place the folded top edge of the zipper at the waistband notch. Sew one side of the zipper tape using a special presser foot for invisible zippers. Seam allowance: 1.0 cm.
20. Zipper Preparation
p. 12- Pre-shrink the zipper tape. Secure the top corners of the zipper tape at a 90-degree angle.
20.6. Pinning Second Zipper Side
p. 13- Pin the other side of the zipper tape to the opposite side of the closure, aligning the mark with the waistband seam.
20.5. Marking Opposite Zipper Side
p. 13- Zip up the tape and mark the opposite side of the tape at the waistband seam.
20.7. Stitching Second Zipper Side
p. 13- Stitch the second side of the zipper tape in place, using a 1.0 cm seam allowance.
20.8. Checking Zipper Alignment
p. 13- Zip it up and check if the waistband seam is perfectly aligned.
20.9. Wrapping Zipper with Lining
p. 14- Wrap the attached zipper tape with the lining seam allowance, folding along the waistband crease, and pin the allowance to the zipper tape seam.
20.10. Stitching Lining to Zipper
p. 14- Stitch the lining seam allowance to the zipper tape seam using an edge-stitching presser foot. Repeat on the other side as well.
Measuring and trimming the zipper
p. 12- Measure the length of the zipper tape. Align the zipper tape with the marked closure line so that the top stopper sits 2 mm below the notch at the collar fold and the bottom stopper is 2 mm above the lower control mark on the closure. If necessary, trim the zipper tape to fit. Attach the bottom stopper.
Finishing the zipper bottom edge
p. 12- Finish the lower edge of the zipper tape. In our case, we used twill tape.
Related terms
requiresSingle presser foot
← depends onBasting inner collar