Zipper area reinforcement
Applying fusible tape to the zipper seam allowance to prevent the knit fabric from stretching during zipper installation.
Where it is used
Marking Zipper Reference Points
p. 9- Mark reference points on the sewn zipper tape where the waistband seams meet. Zip up and transfer these marks to the other side of the zipper tape.
Checking Zipper Alignment
p. 10- Turn the zipper ends inside, close the zipper, and verify that the waistband seams align perfectly. Lightly press through a pressing cloth.
Trimming Zipper Tail
p. 10- Trim the excess zipper tail down to 2 cm. Cut a small fabric scrap measuring 4 cm wide by 3 cm long.
Pressing Zipper Wrap
p. 11- Press the open vertical edges of the fabric wrap piece toward the zipper.
Reinforcing Seam Allowances
p. 2- On the inside of the front and collar pieces, reinforce the zipper seam allowances with a straight-grain fusible tape.
Marking and Preparing the Zipper Position
p. 2- Mark the position for attaching the zipper on the inside center front. If your zipper is shorter, adjust the marking to match your zipper's length by subtracting 8 cm (the collar stand's length) from the length of your zipper up to the bottom stop.
Drawing Zipper Box and Extending Slit
p. 5- Draw the zipper attachment box—vertical lines should be placed 0.7 cm from the slit. Continue cutting along the center front, stopping 2 cm before you reach the bottom marking line.
Positioning Left Zipper Tape
p. 5- Place the left side of the zipper face down against the left front side of the dress along the cut. The zipper teeth should point toward the sleeve. Position the top zipper stop just 0.1–0.2 cm before the zipper end mark. Pin or baste in place, making sure the zipper tape edge lines up with the cut edge on the front piece.
Sewing Left Zipper Tape
p. 5- Sew in the zipper using a single presser foot, keeping a 0.7 cm distance from the edge of the tape. Press to finish.
Transferring Alignment Marks
p. 6- Zip up the zipper and transfer the collar attachment points and the end of the zipper placement to the opposite side of the tape.
Positioning Right Zipper Tape
p. 6- Place the other side of the zipper along the right front, matching the alignment marks. Pin or baste in place, making sure the edge of the zipper tape lines up with the opening on the front piece.
Sewing Right Zipper Tape
p. 6- Sew the zipper using a single-sided presser foot, keeping a distance of 0.7 cm from the edge of the tape. Press to finish. Carefully snip diagonally right up to the end point of the stitch—make sure not to cut into the zipper tape.
