Zipper installation
The method of sewing a zipper into a seam, in this case using a metallic zipper and a placket.
Where it is used
Sewing Bodice Side Seams
p. 6- Place front and back bodice right sides together. Sew the right side seam completely with a 1 cm seam allowance. On the left side seam, leave an opening for the invisible zipper, stitching only from the armhole to the zipper mark.
Assembling Skirt Side Seams
p. 8- Align front and back skirt pieces right sides together. Sew the right side seam completely. Sew the left side seam from the zipper reference mark down to the hem, leaving the upper section open for the zipper.
Sewing First Zipper Tape
p. 9- Using an invisible zipper foot, stitch the zipper tape in place from the top stop down to 2-3 mm before the skirt side seam starts.
Marking Zipper Reference Points
p. 9- Mark reference points on the sewn zipper tape where the waistband seams meet. Zip up and transfer these marks to the other side of the zipper tape.
Basting Second Zipper Tape
p. 10- Unzip and align the second zipper tape face down on the other side of the opening, matching the waistband reference marks. Pin and baste in place.
Trimming Zipper Tail
p. 10- Trim the excess zipper tail down to 2 cm. Cut a small fabric scrap measuring 4 cm wide by 3 cm long.
Checking Zipper Alignment
p. 10- Turn the zipper ends inside, close the zipper, and verify that the waistband seams align perfectly. Lightly press through a pressing cloth.
Sewing Second Zipper Tape
p. 10- Stitch the second zipper tape using the invisible zipper foot, starting from the top stop down to the lower reference mark.
Pressing Zipper Wrap
p. 11- Press the open vertical edges of the fabric wrap piece toward the zipper.
Wrapping Zipper End
p. 11- Place the extra fabric piece right sides together with the lower edge of the zipper and sew across using presser foot width.
Finishing Zipper Wrap
p. 11- Fold the lower raw edge of the wrap piece over the zipper end, pin, and stitch 1-2 mm from the edge to cleanly enclose the raw zipper tail.
Finish Slit Seam Allowances
p. 3- On the right side of the back pieces, mark the guide points by measuring 3–4 cm up from where the slit begins. Finish the seam allowances on a serger set to a 3-thread stitch, following the marked sections. Stitch from the right side of the fabric. Press with an iron.
Related terms
requiresStraight stitch sewing machine
requiresNon-separating zipper tape
requiresMetallic zipper tape
requiresSeparating zipper tape
requiresSeparating zipper
requiresNarrow zipper foot
requiresSingle-prong foot
requiresNarrow zipper foot
requiresStraight stitch sewing machine
requiresNarrow presser foot