Armhole finishing
Finishing the sleeveless armholes using facings and turning the garment right side out.
Where it is used
Pinning Neckline Facing
p. 4- Insert the facing into the neckline, right sides together, and pin in place, matching the notches. Align the facing seam with the raglan seam on the back of the left sleeve.
Stitching Shoulder Seams
p. 5- Stitch the shoulder seams using a French seam, similar to the back. Press the seams toward the front piece.
Sew Right Shoulder Seam
p. 4- Place the front and back pieces right sides together. Pin along the RIGHT shoulder seam (imagine you're wearing the dress). Leave the left shoulder open for now. Sew along the seam allowance at 0.7 cm using an overlock. Stitch along the back piece side. Press the seam, then press the seam allowances toward the front.
Position Armhole Binding
p. 5- Lay the dress facing you. Get the bindings ready for finishing the armhole. At both the start and end of the binding, leave a 2 cm allowance—this helps you start and finish the stitch, keeping the binding evenly stretched along the entire edge. Find the armhole marker on the binding. Place the side with the armhole marker against the front part of the dress. Pin the binding to the dress, lining up the markers at the armhole and shoulder seam.
Stitch Armhole Binding
p. 5- Attach a twin needle to your sewing machine. It's a good idea to test your stitch on a scrap piece first. On some machines, loosening the upper thread tension can help improve stitch quality. Sew the binding in place using the twin needle. The left line of stitching should be about 1–2 mm from the edge of the binding (the edge lying against the dress). Begin stitching at the tail end of the binding. Secure your stitches at both the beginning and end. Remove the basting and press the seam.
Finish Left Armhole
p. 7- Finish the left armhole with bias tape, just like you did for the right armhole. Baste, then stitch it in place using a twin needle for knits. Press with an iron.
16. Collar Preparation
p. 7- 16.1. Stitch the ends of the collar with the right sides facing inward. Leave a seam allowance of 0.7 cm. 16.2. Turn the collar right side out and press it flat.
19. Press armhole seam
p. 10- Press the armhole seam allowance toward the sleeve.
Press Sleeve Armhole Seams
p. 7- Press with an iron, then fold the seam allowances toward the sleeve and press again.
11.
p. 6- Press the finished upper edge and armhole.
17. Serge lower edge
p. 6- Serge the lower edge of the top shell to the lining edge on a 4-thread overlock, gently stretching and smoothing the seam allowances all the way around. Use a hook to tuck the serger thread tails into the coverstitch line.
18. Turn right-side out
p. 6- Turn the top right-side out through the opening left in the lining’s side seam.
Related terms
requiresArmhole binding
requiresTopstitching
requiresTopstitching
requiresClipping curves
requiresIron and ironing board
requiresPressing