Bodice assembly
Joining the front and back bodice panels with the shoulder straps sandwiched securely between the layers.
Where it is used
Preparing Shoulder Gathers
p. 2- On the front bodice pieces, sew two parallel basting lines along the shoulder edge for gathering (first line 3 mm from the edge, second line 7 mm). Leave long thread tails at the ends.
Joining Shoulder Seams
p. 3- Place the front and back bodice pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulder edges. Pin and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance. Finish the seam allowances with a serger and press them toward the back.
Gathering Lower Front Bodice
p. 4- Pull the lower threads to gather the lower edge of the front bodice to match the pattern specifications. Tie off the thread ends to secure.
Overlapping Front Bodice Pieces
p. 5- Place the right front piece over the left front piece, aligning them at the bottom edge. Pin them together using the reference points.
Attaching Outer Waistband to Bodice
p. 7- Place the bodice and outer waistband right sides together, matching the lower edge of the bodice. Pin and sew with a 1 cm seam allowance. Press the allowance toward the waistband.
Positioning Inner Waistband
p. 7- Lay the bodice wrong side up. Place the inner waistband along the waistband seam, right side facing the wrong side of the bodice. Pin in place, matching notches.
12.3. Marking placket corner
p. 12- Mark the corner of the placket stitching line on the right side of the front bodice. Also align the reference marks at the placket corner with the chalk markings on the front and placket pattern pieces.
13. Baste bodice lining
p. 5- Baste the bodice lining and bodice wrong side to wrong side along the top edge (to secure layers). Bind the neckline in the bodice with bias tape.
14. Prepare top edge casing
p. 5- Along the top edge of the bodice (similar to the sleeve casing treatment), baste/press the allowance to the wrong side 5-7mm. Then fold the casing on the wrong side along the notches and tack/topstitch. Press.
15. Topstitch bodice lining
p. 5- Tack/topstitch the bodice lining along the lower edge from the right side in the seam split of the bodice attachment, forming pleats or gathers. The back lining remains free.
11. Align lining with back
p. 5- Align the lining face-to-face with the back. Sew the lining along the top edge of the back. Turn it right side out, adjust the straps, and topstitch the allowances on the lining 1-2mm. Press. If needed, secure the straps.
16. Final ironing and straps insertion
p. 5- Perform final ironing and insert the straps into the front bodice casing.
Related terms
depends onStrap preparation
compatible withTopstitching