Reinforcing edges
Applying adhesive tape to high-stress or bias-cut areas like pocket openings and zipper seams.
Where it is used
Interfacing and Edge Reinforcement
p. 1- Completely interface the front and back waistband pieces. Apply bias fusible seam tape to the wrong side of the neckline edges for the front and back bodice pieces. Reinforce the left side seams where the zipper goes on the left front bodice, front skirt, and back skirt with straight-grain fusible tape.
Secure Twill Tape Edge
p. 11- Hand-stitch the free edge of the twill tape along the zipper with invisible stitches, or machine-stitch close to the edge of the tape. Press to finish.
Apply Stay Tape to Lower Pieces
p. 2- From the right side, apply bias fusible stay tape to reinforce the neckline edges and armhole edges on the lower front and back pieces. While fusing, be careful not to stretch the edge. After fusing, compare the edge length to the paper pattern—the lengths should match.
Reinforcing Pocket Seams with Silicone Tape
p. 5- Mark 2 cm above and below the pocket attachment seam. Cut two pieces of silicone tape matching this distance. Place the silicone tape along the side edge, lining it up with the pocket stitching line, and sew from notch to notch. Trim any excess and press the finished seam allowance toward the pocket.
Reinforcing Side Seams with Silicone Tape
p. 9- Cut silicone tape pieces for the lower side seam (bottom edge to pocket) and upper side seam (pocket to sleeve edge). Place the silicone tape along the sleeve seam allowance, lining it up with the stitching line, and serge both together. Trim extra tape when reaching the pocket.
Preparing the zipper top edges
p. 12- Turn the top edges of the zipper tape 90 degrees and add the fasteners.
Reinforce Shoulder Seam
p. 4- To help prevent stretching at the shoulder seam: Attach a strip of fusible interfacing with a knit base, 0.5 cm wide and as long as the shoulder edge, to the shoulder edge of the back piece (or insert a silicone tape under the seam for reinforcement).
Baste Twill Tape
p. 9- Baste the other side of the tape 0.1 cm from the edge.
Reinforcing Pocket Opening
p. 4- Use the pocket glue piece to reinforce the pocket opening seam allowance. Attach interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric piece.
Securing Armhole Allowances
p. 14- Secure the garment allowances to the garment lining allowances at the armhole with machine stitching, using straight-grain strips (edge tape 3.0 cm long). Secure in the areas of the shoulder and side seams.
Armhole Reinforcement
p. 7- On the wrong side, reinforce the armhole edges with bias fusible tape. Beforehand, make a few small snips along the tape where it curves (at the side panel area).
