Reinforcing pocket openings
Applying interfacing or stay tape to the pocket entry to prevent it from stretching out during wear.
Where it is used
Positioning Twill Tape on Zipper Inside
p. 7- Place the twill tape along the zipper on the inside, lining up the edge of the tape with the zipper stitching. Pin the tape to the zipper tape, forming a frame and covering the lower edge of the zipper. Start and finish attaching the twill tape by overlapping onto the collar by 1–2 cm.
Securing the Bottom Zipper Frame
p. 7- Fold the free corner of the frame to the inside of the front and lay it over the zipper tape. Pin in place. Stitch on the machine, backstitching at the ends, joining the points where the zipper stitching finishes.
Reinforcing Pocket Seams with Silicone Tape
p. 5- Mark 2 cm above and below the pocket attachment seam. Cut two pieces of silicone tape matching this distance. Place the silicone tape along the side edge, lining it up with the pocket stitching line, and sew from notch to notch. Trim any excess and press the finished seam allowance toward the pocket.
Reinforcing Side Seams with Silicone Tape
p. 9- Cut silicone tape pieces for the lower side seam (bottom edge to pocket) and upper side seam (pocket to sleeve edge). Place the silicone tape along the sleeve seam allowance, lining it up with the stitching line, and serge both together. Trim extra tape when reaching the pocket.
Serging Pockets and Pressing Side Seams
p. 10- Serge around the pocket without silicone tape, then place the silicone tape underneath once back at the side edge and serge it together. Press the finished edges toward the front panels (in the direction the pocket faces) and give the pocket a nice press.
Inserting Elastic and Closing Openings
p. 13- Measure and cut elastic tape into two pieces. Insert the elastic into the sleeve casing, overlap the ends by 1.0 cm, and secure them by hand or with a zigzag stitch. Sew the pocket opening from the front side, then press the seam flat.
6. Adding Bar Tacks
p. 6- Add bar tacks at the ends of the pocket opening. Each bar tack should be 1.0 cm wide.
Pin Twill Tape
p. 8- Pin it so that the edge of the twill tape overlaps the overlocker stitching by 0.1 – 0.2 cm. Place the ends of the twill tape so they slightly overlap the plackets.
Stitch Twill Tape Second Edge
p. 9- Stitch the second edge of the twill tape, sewing at a distance of 0.1 – 0.2 cm from the edge. Start and finish the stitching exactly at the placket attachment seam. Direct the placket attachment seam allowances towards the plackets. You can baste first.
Applying interfacing to the closure
p. 5- Attach a 3.0 cm wide strip of interfacing to the seam allowance along the marked line for the closure. For extra reinforcement, add a 4x3 cm strip of interfacing to the lower part of the closure.
Reinforcing Interfacing Areas
p. 1- Reinforce the glue areas (the shaded parts on the pattern). Depending on your fabric, you can reinforce the slit completely or just at the top.
1. Fusible interfacing
p. 5- Apply interfacing to the wrong side of the pocket facings.
Related terms
requiresFusible stay tape
alternative toLightweight interfacing