Topstitching Facing
Understitching or topstitching the facing seam allowance at 0.1 cm to prevent the facing from rolling to the outside.
Where it is used
Sewing Neckline Binding
p. 3- Sew along the seam allowance at 1 cm, ensuring the stitch line catches the main edge thread. Press with an iron.
Securing the Wrap Front
p. 5- Sew a securing stitch across the overlapped bottom edge, keeping 0.5-0.7 cm from the raw edge.
Stitching Sleeve Hem Casing
p. 12- Topstitch the casing from the right side, sewing 0.1-0.2 cm from the inner folded edge. Leave a 2 cm opening near the side seam to insert the elastic.
Topstitching the casing
p. 7- TOPSTITCH ALONG THE MARKED CASING LINE, LEAVING A 2.0 CM OPENING AT THE SIDE SEAM AREA.
Topstitching Sleeve Seam
p. 2- Press the seam allowance toward the front and topstitch it with a sewing machine, starting from the hemline up to where the allowance is attached, keeping the stitch 0.5 cm from the seam. Tuck the serger thread tails securely under the bar tack.
Stitching Neckline Facing
p. 4- Open up the facing along the pressed fold, then fold it right sides together, matching the short edges. Stitch with a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Press the seam, then press the seam allowances open.
Topstitching Neckline
p. 5- Press the seam allowances of the neckline toward the T-shirt and topstitch from the right side, keeping the stitch line 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam on the T-shirt.
12.2. Securing placket seam
p. 12- Secure the seam allowances. Allowance: 0.5 cm.
Attaching the Facing
p. 3- Pin or baste the facing according to the diagram. Place a temporary machine stitch with the maximum stitch length. Remove the pins. Press lightly.
Stitching the Back Seam (French Seam)
p. 4- Lay the pieces wrong sides together, and pin. Place a stitch on the right side of the back piece at a distance of 4–5 mm from the edge, with backstitches at the beginning and end of the stitching line. Press the allowances open, and then press them flat (to the edge). It is important that the allowances do not get caught under stitching 2 (see diagram 1).
Tack Side Seam Allowances
p. 7- Swap out the twin needle on the machine for a knit needle. Press the seam allowances at the side seams toward the front, and from the dress’s front side, add tack stitches about 0.5 cm away from the side seam. Each tack should be 3–4 stitches long. You can also secure the allowances by hand from the inside.
Baste Hem Allowance
p. 8- Refresh the crease of the hem allowance (3 cm) at the bottom of the dress. Secure the hem allowance with a row of stitching using a twin needle. You can also secure the allowances by sewing a zigzag stitch with a frequency of 2–3 and a width of 3.5. For finishing hems with a twin needle: Baste the allowances using a row of contrasting thread, 1 mm from the edge of the allowance.
