Understitching
A line of stitching sewn close to the seam line on the facing, catching the seam allowances to keep the facing from rolling to the outside.
Where it is used
10. Press lining side seams
p. 4- Press the side-seam allowance toward the front lining.
25. Close lining opening
p. 8- Hand-sew the opening left in the lining’s side seam using invisible stitches.
Understitching Armhole
p. 8- Direct the seam allowances onto the lining and topstitch on the right side of the lining, setting the stitching 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam line. After completing the stitching along the allowances, make clips/notches, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
Pressing Armhole Roll
p. 8- Turn the lining to the wrong side of the front and back pieces, and press, creating a slight 'roll' (understitch/overedge). It is more convenient to press from the lining side, as this allows you to control the width of the roll.
Pressing Right Armhole Roll
p. 10- Turn the lining to the wrong side of the front and back pieces and press, creating a slight 'roll' (understitch/overedge).
Understitching Right Armhole
p. 10- Direct the seam allowances onto the lining and topstitch on the right side of the lining, setting the stitching 0.1–0.2 cm from the seam line. Use backstitches (reinforcement). In two steps. After completing the stitching along the allowances, make clips/notches, stopping 0.2 cm short of the stitching line.
Pressing Neckline Roll
p. 11- Turn the bodice to the right side. Press the neckline, creating a slight 'roll' (understitch/overedge). Press lightly.
Waistline Lining Pinned View
p. 17- View of the pinned waistline lining from the wrong side.
Understitching Neckline
p. 16- Stitch the neckline seam of the front and back pieces with a 0.1 cm seam allowance from the side of the facings and back facing, stopping the stitch at the corner.
Pinning Garment Hem
p. 15- Turn the garment to the wrong side. Pin the garment hem to the lining hem, aligning the raw edges and side seams, folding the raw edges right sides together.
Checking Lining Length
p. 15- Check the lining length at the garment hem. Trim/level if necessary. The lining should extend 0.5 cm beyond the garment hem raw edge.
Understitching Seam Allowances
p. 14- Stitch the seam allowances to the lining, keeping close to the seam. Access the allowances through the opening left for this step: Along the armhole, stop sewing about 4-5 cm before you reach the shoulder seams. Stitch along the neckline, leaving 4-5 cm before the shoulder seams and 2-3 cm before the corner of the front edge. Sew along the back neckline, also stopping 2-3 cm short of the shoulder seam. Sew along the front edge and the entire bottom line in one continuous stitch.
Related terms
requiresSewing machine
requiresSewing machine
requiresSewing machine
applied toFacings
← depends onNeckline facing
← depends onNeckline facing
requiresStandard sewing machine
requiresSewing machine
applied toFacing
applied toLining fabric