3-thread overlock
An overlock machine setup used primarily for finishing raw edges when a 4-thread overlock is not used.
Where it is used
Stitch Shoulder Seams
p. 5- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulder edges. Pin from the back side. Serge/Stitch on the overlocker, placing the stitch on the back side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
Overlock Placket Bottom
p. 12- Align the plackets along the bottom edge. The allowance of the bottom edge can be trimmed in half. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the plackets. Hide the thread tails of the overlock stitching within the fabric using a thick needle.
Stitch Side and Sleeve Seams
p. 12- Fold the jumper right sides together, aligning the side seams and the sleeve seams, and pin from the back side. In the underarm area, press the seam allowances of the armhole to opposite sides to avoid excessive bulk. Stitch on the overlocker, placing the stitching on the back piece side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
13. Sew sleeves
p. 7- Sew and serge the sleeves into the armholes using a 4-thread overlock machine. (Alternatively, stitch with a sewing machine first, then finish the edges on a regular 3-thread overlock.)
Securing Serger Thread Tails
p. 5- Using a large needle or crochet hook, weave the serger thread tail into the thickness of the knit fabric to hide it.
2. Preparing the Back: Step 2.1
p. 15- Overlock the top edge of the central back piece.
Securing Serger Thread
p. 4- Tuck the end of the serger thread between the layers of knit fabric using a needle or crochet hook.
Finishing Seat Seam
p. 9- Finish the seam allowances with an overlock stitch. Sew the seam from either side. Press, then fold the seam allowances on the straight sections so that the right side of the overlock stitch faces you.
Serging Hem Edges
p. 13- Finish the raw edges at the hem of the pants using a serger. Stitch along the right side of the fabric pieces. Press to set the seam. Refresh the crease for the 4 cm hem allowance. Tuck the serger thread tail inside the hem for a clean finish.
Step 3
p. 6- Stitch the shoulder seams on the overlocker.
