Overlock stitching
A seam finishing and construction technique using an overlocker, ideal for stretchy knit fabrics.
Where it is used
Overlocking Edges
p. 5- Serge/Overlock the raw edges of the armhole and neckline, and the edge of the front opening (placket/facing). You can insert silicone tape into the overlock stitching, which can be basted or stitched on the machine with a temporary stitch beforehand. Alternatively, you can use a special overlocker foot.
Sew Side Seams
p. 7- Fold the dress with the right side facing in. Pin along the side edges, matching up the notches. Sew with an overlock machine, using a 0.7 cm seam allowance. Stitch from the back side. Press with an iron, then fold the seam allowances toward the front. Hide the ends of the overlock stitch between the layers of knit fabric using a knit needle or crochet hook.
Attaching Sleeves
p. 9- Place the sleeves and dress right sides together, aligning the armhole edges. Pin them in place, matching the guide marks. Sew with an overlock, stitching from the dress side.
Stitch Shoulder Seams
p. 5- Place the back and front pieces right sides together, aligning the shoulder edges. Pin from the back side. Serge/Stitch on the overlocker, placing the stitch on the back side. Press lightly, then press the seam allowances towards the front.
Overlock Placket Area
p. 8- In the area of the plackets, the left needle of the overlocker must pass exactly over the machine stitching line. Press lightly.
Overlock Placket Bottom
p. 12- Align the plackets along the bottom edge. The allowance of the bottom edge can be trimmed in half. Serge/Overlock the bottom raw edge of the plackets. Hide the thread tails of the overlock stitching within the fabric using a thick needle.
Step 17
p. 7- Finish the seat seam with an overlock machine.
Securing Serger Thread
p. 4- Tuck the end of the serger thread between the layers of knit fabric using a needle or crochet hook.
Attaching Sleeves
p. 6- Place the sleeves and the jumper right sides together along the armhole, matching the notches. Pin from the sleeve side. Be careful not to mix up the right and left sleeves—use the notches as your guide. Sew the sleeve in with an overlocker, stitching from the sleeve side. Press the seam, then press it toward the jumper.
Attaching the yoke
p. 5- 1. Finish the yoke piece and front piece edges with an overlocker from the right side. 2. Place the yoke on the front piece, right sides together, and stitch on a regular sewing machine, 5–7 mm from the edge.
Attaching the sleeve parts
p. 6- 1. Finish the lower and upper sleeve pieces with an overlocker as shown in the scheme. 2. Place the upper sleeve piece on the lower sleeve piece, right sides together, and stitch on a regular sewing machine, 5–7 mm from the edge.
Step 25
p. 16- Stitch the side seams on the overlocker.
