Sewing concept

Interfacing reinforcement

Applying fusible interfacing to areas like the waistband, fly facing, and pocket openings to stabilize them.

Where it is used

p. 4

Reinforce the pattern pieces: attach interfacing to the plackets and collar, and fuse the collar to the seam allowance along the entire stitching perimeter. To help prevent stretching at the shoulder seam: Attach a strip of fusible interfacing with a knit base, 0.5 cm wide and as long as the shoulder edge, to the shoulder edge of the back piece (or insert a silicone tape under the seam for reinforcement).

p. 3

On the wrong side of the front and collar pieces, reinforce the zipper seam allowances with a strip of fusible interfacing. Attach a 10 mm wide strip, keeping it 2–3 mm away from the edge so the strip’s edge will be caught in the stitching.

p. 3

Fuse the waistband pattern pieces. Attach a 1 cm wide strip of interfacing to the seam allowance at the pocket opening on the front skirt panels.

p. 5

Attach a 3.0 cm wide strip of interfacing to the seam allowance along the marked line for the closure. For extra reinforcement, add a 4x3 cm strip of interfacing to the lower part of the closure.

p. 10

Apply a 1.5 cm wide strip of interfacing to the vertical edges of the collar stand from the inside, to reinforce the seam allowance for the zipper tape.

p. 1

Reinforce the glue areas (the shaded parts on the pattern). Depending on your fabric, you can reinforce the slit completely or just at the top.

p. 3

According to the diagram below, trace the pattern pieces onto the lining/facing. After tracing, transfer the seam lines from the pattern pieces using chalk or a disappearing fabric marker. Apply fusible interfacing or stabilizer to the outer stand (collar stand) and facing as indicated.

p. 1

Pre-shrink the fabric (Dampen the fabric, let it dry until just slightly moist, then iron it. Wait until it’s completely dry before use.) Be sure to pre-shrink the lining fabric as well. Transfer the pattern pieces onto the fabric, making sure to follow the grainline and nap direction (if there is one). Cut out the pieces according to the pattern. Mark the darts and pleats with tailor's chalk. Transfer all notches and reference marks by making 3mm snips through all layers of fabric, ensuring they're symmetrical. Mark the pleats on the front pieces with notches. If it’s hard to tell the right and wrong sides of your fabric, be sure to mark the wrong side as you cut! Reinforce all required pieces and areas marked with hatching on the pattern, including the entire waistband, the fly facing, and the seam allowances along the pocket opening on the front panels.

p. 9

p. 9

requiresIron